WTF? I know I am having both heart issues and asthma on top of it so the oxygen supply to my brain is questionable, but why is red safe lights any different than red safelights. Seen it both ways.
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/how-sa...om-safe-lights
"Landscapes exist in the material world yet soar in the realms of the spirit..." Tsung Ping, 5th Century China
You lost me...
I even read the Freestyle rant.
FOLLOW-UP
1. Since posting I've set up this paper cutter and tried it on some film last night. I have some Kodak white box, blue half-speed (10x12) that I got for cheap so we will see how that works out.
2. This image shows the set up for 5" cuts. The fence at the back with the scale on it is adjustable so you can square it. The instructions suggested using a carpenters square, but the Squangle® I tried to use was too big, so I ended up using a piece of mat board. A draftsman triangle should work too.
The part I don't like is, the back stop (green thing) is not attached to the fence. It is loose and attaches to the bottom plate only with magnets. I paid too much attention to price only and missed this fact and I think this magnetic approach would be problematic in complete darkness, hence the clamp. It sort of worked. If you buy one, be sure to get a cutter with a back stop that locks down securely to the fence.
3. In complete darkness I open the box and pulled out 7 sheets so I could see what it looks like and experiment with.
4. I inserted three sheets of the 10" side and used a few sheets of old printer paper for bottom and top pressure plates. The blade and the clamp will have some oil on them so you must pay attention to cleaning them before cutting.
two more in next post.
Testing all 9 pieces indicated that the fit was the same and looking at the stack the cuts were straight and very close, less than .5 mm I think. That may have been my error as I bumped the back stop and had to reset it.
I'm going to try cutting this under safelight tonight to see how that goes. This box is marked for safelight "Type M", which I've never heard of but there is a Kodak pub. that indicates this is the same as a #13, http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...845/ti0845.pdf. I don't have any #13's but I do have the Randy Moe approved Superbrightleds red bulb. I don’t know if that is safe for this film but I will do a test later this spring. One bulb lights up my 54"/2 powder room like crazy, even when reflected of the medium yellow walls.
--- Steve from Missouri ---
5. Here is the first cut made.
6. I tried both ends of all three pieces and they slid in and out nicely. Taking the remaining 7x10 inch sheets I made two more cuts with the same setup, getting 6 more 5x7's. This photo looks like the film is crinkling while loading, but it isn't.
Notice this stuff is gold in color. I don't think I remember anyone mentioning gold x-ray film in
The Thread...
--- Steve from Missouri ---
I have cut this film under a pair of those LED bulbs with no noticeable fogging. But I haven't done any testing for base fog, so YMMV. And I point the lights, which are in a clamping work-light with a reflector, away from the floor, where I'm working, and up to a corner where the light is reflected only.
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig."
seezee at Mercury Photo Bureau
seezee on Flickr
seezee's day-job at Messenger Web Design
10 Thumbs up for the IR goggles!!!!!!!!!!!. I have Rota Trim , Martin Yale both are great. Also you might look for a cheap little Dahle (Blue sheet metal) If you are only cutting a few sheets spend your money on some cheap toy goggles and get a rotary trimmer. The Martin Yale will cut 50 sheets at a time, overkill. Watch out for China copies of the Martin Yale , ain't the same.
Has anyone ever tried/succeeded to cut down film within a Harrison changing tent? I have the Jumbo-version and am tinkering with the idea of cutting 4x10 from 8x10.
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