When contact printing using a UV light requiring process, I have cyanotypes and carbon printing in mind, how do you apply corrections like burning and dodging?

I've done a little burning and dodging with some negatives on visible light paper where exposures went maybe 30-60 sec. But, I'm not sure how I'd do it under UV lights w/o a welding mask and suntan lotion etc as exposures tend to start at 45-60 seconds and climb towards 10 minutes with the new cyanotype.

Im told some of these processes are somewhat self masking in that the exposed areas resist further UV interactions making it harder (but not impossible) to over expose. I've seen this with the New cyanotypes recipe of Dr. Ware. Or at least I think so.

Is this also true of carbon printing?

Also, people talk about a long or short tonal scale. I'm still trying to get a grip on all these photo terms. If I get a smooth range of tones from almost black navy blue down to paper base, is that a long scale? I can with XRay film, Pyrocat HD and the new cyanotype assuming a pretty dense negative and a few minutes under the 6 t8 bug zapper bulbs.

These negatives are dense enough I suspect they'd be hard to print well on Azo or regular MG silver based paper.

Part of what I'm considering is making enlarged negatives which would allow corrections but that seems like a pain. But then so is the idea of even more enormous cameras. Or a lot of time tinkering at a computer and enlarging with a scanner and inkjet.

So, how do you all handle this for alt process especially carbon printing?

I don't want to make a huge camera and wish I'd just made bigger negs from 4x5's or 5x7's