I have found it is best to find a good, used back, preferably metal rather than fuss with dimensions for that part. The rest is straightforward.
I have found it is best to find a good, used back, preferably metal rather than fuss with dimensions for that part. The rest is straightforward.
Great Jim. Let us know how the book is. I have searched for drawings for a long time and never found any for any camera I wanted to build, so now I am just copying a 4x5 in 8x10. The biggest problem I have found is sourcing metal parts, but if we had detailed drawings of those I might be able to find a shop to produce them in Thailand or China (or maybe you can do it in Georgia!) Cheers, Tim
Metal parts need not be a problem. While shim stock (or something similar) is best for a pinhole and a T-nut is cheap and sturdy for the tripod socket, wood suffices for almost everything else except small hardware and a lens. The Noba studio camera employed a clever V-belt focusing system. Several pinhole cameras were marketed with a wedge to keep the film holder or a ground glass frame tight against the back standard. Wedges can also lock down movements. When engineering problems are reduced to the most basic elements, nontraditional solutions sometimes appear. Too much designing is wasted on incremental advances over familiar designs rather than starting over and finally getting it right.
Jim, I entirely agree with your sentiments. The last 5x4 camera I made is almost entirely built from wood, apart from the lens and the bellows. The only metal items are a few wood screws, bolts and nuts.Originally Posted by Jim Jones
I have made quite a few large format cameras over the years and part of the interest, and the challenge, has been to come up with simple design solutions that will result in a rigid lightweight camera suitable for photographing the landscape.
To the OP I would suggest that , rather than follow someone elses ready-made plans, you work out exactly what you want your camera to do for you, especially in terms of movements. Then get a film holder, and start by working out how this can be accommodated in the camera you have in mind.
Jim recommends reducing things to the most basic elements. This makes a lot of sense to me.
Alan
I used a wedge between a dowel rod and the focusing screen or film holder in one iteration of my 8x10 project. It worked. But it gets fiddly: lots of loose parts to keep track of. Worse, I had cardboard Waterhouse stops, too. There were other reasons this was superseded by another design. The next design was under built and has more movements than I need and rigidity issues and weight issues once I reinforced it with a lot more wood. But the design was predicated on buying as little as possible so wood it was and salvaged hardware. I like the idea of belts for focus that's clever. I will probably. Build a few more cameras. I'm hoping the cameras I have will teach me what I need in subsequent ones. There are days I really think that both whole plate and 14x17 would be nice companions the gear I have. The WP for certain kinds of hikes and hoped for kayak trips and the big one where space/weight is a little less of a constraint. I really thought 5x7 would be perfect but well...
Hey Jim in alex city you still working on this? I've been wanting to build one for years. Same for 4x5. But I've found the biggest barrier is the back with ground glass and ability to rotate. You can probably buy one for less than it cost to build. I just got the Intrepid 4x5 from England, price was great and they will soon have an 8x10 coming out. Not sure what the exchange rate will be by the time that happens but I ordered my 4x5 when it was still pretty good.
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