Korona 5x7 with stripped front rise

[Rael]

Hi,

I recently purchased a Grundlach-Korona 5x7 and the mechanism for the front rise seems to be stripped out. From what I can tell, the rod with the knob connected is made of brass and has the gear teeth cut right into the rod. This seems like I could remove the stop off the right side, and slide the bad rod out and a new one in without removing the front standard and disconnecting the bellows. For someone who knows this camera, is that a true statement? Also, is my only shot at finding a replacement part going to be trolling ebay? Or are there parts people you'd recommend. Thanks!

(I'm new to the forum, and for some reason whenever I try to use the search feature, I end up with the same list of posts that are there without using the search feature so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong there...)

[StoneNYC]

Sometimes they just get out of alignment in terms of how deep within the teeth the rod is going. Are you sure he just doesn't need to be shifted left or right? This things have pretty deep teeth and I'm surprised that anyone could strip it.

Welcome by the way, best hope is to find someone here with parts. I need some myself, just not for the 5x7 and not specifically the rod.

Good luck!

[Rael]

Sometimes they just get out of alignment in terms of how deep within the teeth the rod is going. Are you sure he just doesn't need to be shifted left or right? This things have pretty deep teeth and I'm surprised that anyone could strip it.

Welcome by the way, best hope is to find someone here with parts. I need some myself, just not for the 5x7 and not specifically the rod.

Good luck!

Thank you! It doesn't appear to be out of alignment, the reason I think it's probably a goner is because of the fine brass shavings that were dropping down from the knob side of the front standard as it was adjusted upward with some difficulty. I was trying to see what was binding at the time. The toothed rails appear to be very sharp, and very steel. The adjustment rod is something softer, and I'm pretty sure it's chewed up nicely.

[Kevin Crisp]

I had a similar problem with stripped teeth on a Universal 8X10. The rise would skip and slip. I had a machinist friend make me a new gear. In your case, it sounds like it would have to be pressed on the shaft.

[Rael]

I had a similar problem with stripped teeth on a Universal 8X10. The rise would skip and slip. I had a machinist friend make me a new gear. In your case, it sounds like it would have to be pressed on the shaft.

From what I can see, it's not a gear pressed onto the shaft -- it's like the shaft IS the gear.

[StoneNYC]

From what I can see, it's not a gear pressed onto the shaft -- it's like the shaft IS the gear. It looks like the teeth are part of the shaft. Hard to describe...

What he's saying is yo can have a tooler cut a rod that can then be "etched" with the teeth! Does that make sense? Toolers can do magic

[Rael]

Ahhhh, ok. gotcha. Thanks. Um. Know any toolers? ha. It seems like a really bad design. There's absolutely nothing holding that gear against the toothed track besides the slot in the wood..

[Kevin Crisp]

From the photo it looks like the teeth on the track are the problem, but it is hard to tell.

[Rael]

From the photo it looks like the teeth on the track are the problem, but it is hard to tell.

I can actually see one of the cut gears on the rail is bent over flat, which is why it binds on every rotation. The teeth on the track seem fine -- I just removed the track because that's the only way to get the geared rod out -- and I think I might just leave it like that! I can lift it up easy enough manually and lock it in place. But thanks -- it's good to know that a machinist can actually make something like that. I had no idea....

[StoneNYC]

I can actually see one of the cut gears on the rail is bent over flat, which is why it binds on every rotation. The teeth on the track seem fine -- I just removed the track because that's the only way to get the geared rod out -- and I think I might just leave it like that! I can lift it up easy enough manually and lock it in place. But thanks -- it's good to know that a machinist can actually make something like that. I had no idea....

SK Grimes possibly can. Mine works fine and I thought it was a good design haha, we all work differently, lifting it up and then locking it isn't a bad alternative. Add a Teflon washer on either side and you'll have a Chamonix style design