Mee too, and I like that color.
Kallitype does solarize easier than Van Dyke, doesn't it? I notice the edges are quite light - actually it works for this image, I think.
Mee too, and I like that color.
Kallitype does solarize easier than Van Dyke, doesn't it? I notice the edges are quite light - actually it works for this image, I think.
Thanks everyone.
I reprinted it today this time, though, giving it the correct UV exposure and toning it for 15 minutes with an ammonium thiocynate/gold chloride toner. The edges are much darker than on the palladium-toned print which I think are a function of the toner. It came out of the final wash looking good and is in the drying cabinet. I'll post a scan of it after it dries down to max Dmax.
Thomas
Thomas
Here's the finished print:
It looks its best at about 1.5 arms length away with your distance glasses on - much better than in the scan.
Here's my best Kallitype to date in 2017:
http://spiritsofsilver.com/yahoo_sit...3840_large.jpg
The 8x10 negative was shot earlier this month and printed on 11x14 paper - too large for the scanners bed leaving the black coating border visible. I was pleasantly surprised to see that Henry Fox Talbot's early salt prints were also printed on oversize paper and also show the overcoat.
Both prints were toned in the same toner which the now defunct Chicago Albumin Company identified as being derived form Eastman Kodak's "Kodak T-53" toner. I googled "Kodak T-53" but found no results. Can anyone shed any light on this toner?
Thomas
Hi All of you Kallitypers,
In preparation for heading into the summer here in the northern hemisphere, I'm thinking of trying Kallitypes. I was wondering if anyone could comment on exposure times. Typically, peak summer, a standard cyanotype (traditional formula) contact print would take me roughly 7-10 minutes in the sun to expose it. Would anyone be able to comment on relative exposure time for kallitypes? I've got Christopher James' book on alt processes, and have looked around the web, found a lot of info on the chemistry and such, but wondered where to start on exposure times before I start tweaking.
Thanks!
Bill
Bill,
It depends on the negative. My last print - the one posted above - was exposed for 6'45" in the open shade and 25" in the sun. The prior one was 6' in the shade and 25" in the sun. You are looking for a very faint image with the shadows just starting to come visible and the highlights extremely faint or invisible. James call it "a stage whisper." It's difficult to describe but you'll get it after making a few prints.
Thomas
Thank you Thomas! That gives me a starting point. I have a split back contact printer to check the print, but didn't want to cook the print completely before my first check?
Cheers!
Bill
Marin Headlands From Lincoln Park - San Francisco, 2017.
I shot the negative over the weekend as a front was moving in from the north. This is a work in progress - tricky atmosphere.
Gold-toned Kallitype, 610mm Apo-Nikkor lens on Toyo 810MII.
Thomas
Same print as above but a much better scan:
http://spiritsofsilver.com/yahoo_sit...1640_large.jpg
Thomas
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