To the OP: There can be a lifetime of fun and adventure with pinhole. Many of us use box cameras instead of LF cameras with bellows, since you can more easily put framing dots or lines on the sides and top of the box.

For optimal sharpness (which is not necessarily the only valid approach), each focal length has its own optimal sized pinhole. So using a bellows camera, you'd want a variety of pinhole sizes, for wide angle, normal and more telephoto angles of view.

I've had good results on 5x7 or 5x8 at F/300.

If you use sheet film, be aware of reciprocity failure. B/W photo paper negatives generally do not have issues with reciprocity failure in normal light levels, but do present their own challenges with controlling excessive contrast. MG paper will have its high-contrast emulsion activated by the blue and UV of daylight, resulting in excess contrast. So I use grade 2 RC paper instead.

Second, I preflash my paper negatives in the darkroom before loading into film holders or box cameras. A faint, even exposure so as to produce a faint gray on otherwise unexposed paper will serve to increase shadow detail in the scene without a significant increase in highlight density, thereby limiting excess contrast.

Regarding viewing the image on the GG of the camera, I've had good luck doing this on my Speed Graphic by using what I call a "viewing hole," which is about 1/8" wide, roughly F/50 or so. Under a dark cloth, it will provide enough light to be able to judge the general composition of the scene. You will not have enough resolution to see fine details, however, so this method is only for framing the scene.

About F295, it was once the premier discussion forum for pinhole photography, but is no longer an active community. Some of us long time members have started their own blogs. Mine will be a source of images, camera making projects and general experience and advice. And I will answer your questions in the blog's comment section.

pinholeobcura.blogspot.com

~Joe