easy to prepare paper developer

[Liquid Artist]

My darkroom days are most likely over for the winter (it is not insulated or heated yet), but in the spring I may be tempted to start a thread about mixing our own chemistry if no one beats me to it.

I always want to try different formulas. Plus I'm always running out of chemistry.

[Ben Calwell]

Thanks for the great advice on paper developer. I actually do mix my own D23 for film. But that raises another question -- I'll mix some D23, but might only process a few sheets. I've been pouring the D23 back into the bottle to use again and haven't noticed any problems. If I mix it fresh every time I want to use it (for typically only a few sheets), and then discard it, I'll run out of the dry chemicals fast. I'm not a prolific producer of photographs and might only use my darkroom a few times a year. I've been using HC110 from concentrate, too, which, for me, is more cost effective, as it lasts a long time.

[Bruce Barlow]

I found out the hard way that most plastics are air permeable, so get the right stuff and be as happy as Bruce is.

I found that to be the case 10 years ago, but I kept Ansco 130 and other developers in liter Coke bottles for 2 years with no ill effects. Dektol is only a year, because I used it.

I think they've improved the plastics used. Better living through chemistry. Diet Coke is my brand of choice.

Careful searching can find 16 oz glass bottles, too. Obviously, they're even better. As a last resort, buy brown ones.

And, in answer to Liquid Artist, I use water to top off because it's simpler. Adding an ounce of water to a 16 oz bottle doesn't affect dilution enough for me to worry about. I can always add 30 oz of water rather than 32, or just not worry about it and be consistent with my slightly greater dilution. "Close enough for photography," as the sage said.

[bigdog]

Kodak's Polymax T will substitute nicely for Dektol, as will Ilford's PQ and Multigrade. All three mix 1:9 from concentrate.

[esearing]

Can anyone recommend a good, general purpose paper developer that I can mix as needed from liquid concentrate?

Ethol LPD can be mixed from powder to make 1 gallon stock. Or you can buy it premixed liquid form. Should last a long time.
Dilute it 1:1 for cold tone or 1:4 for warmer tone. I personally like 1:3.
I put the used developer in a glass wine bottle between printing sessions. I use a wine stopper with air pump to remove most of the air.

[jp]

I mix up a bunch of Dektol like Bruce Barlow does, perhaps once a year.

Except I have nothing nice to say about Diet Coke.

[Michael Graves]

I buy Photographer's Formulary Ansco 130. I love this developer, especially with Adox MC110 paper. You do have to mix the first batch from powder. But properly stored, it lasts a long long time. I buy the 5-liter kit and mix 5 quarts. Okay, so that's not very precise, but I've gotten used to it, and that's what I do. I then fill Rubbermaid 1-quart plastic bottle to the 1-quart line with the mixed developer and drop glass marbles in until I get a nice meniscus at the top of the bottle and the put the cap on tightly. Then I store it in the closet in the back bedroom we no longer use. It stays nice and cool there, and I've used bottles that was over six months old that hadn't begun to discolor in the least. And the prints looked as good as ones made from the first batch. Just don't let your wife drop the marbles into her aquarium if you haven't washed them yet. Don't ask how I know. I don't want to talk about it.

[Bruce Barlow]

Except I have nothing nice to say about Diet Coke.

Good bottles...

[Michael Clark]

I use the Arizona Green Tea in brown 16oz Pete bottles sold at Costco, they work good. I peel off the label so no one will mistake it for a refreshing drink.

[Donald Qualls]

I've mixed Dektol stock solution in half the water and been able to keep the stock solution in glass pickle jars, with minimal airspace (but not topped up to zero airspace) for over a year. It still works correctly even if the double stock has turned pretty dark brown (like very strong tea or pretty weak coffee), as long as you remember to dilute correctly (instead of 1+2, you need to dilute 1+5 to get the same working solution strength).