Question on usage--Shrink wrapping or other packaging

[Raymond Bleesz]

I am curious on what others have done regarding the selling of one's prints, unframed. My matted images run typically from 11x14, 14x18, 16x20, 20x24 and a few odd sizes as well such as 18x22. For those of you who sell matted prints & present them perhaps in bins or such, what do you do in the way of presentation--shrink wrap each matted piece of work or perhaps use plastic packages for the specific sized matted print?

A 24inch shrink wrap machine costs about $400--I have a heat gun so I would not need that piece of equipment. The number of prints would be a determining factor in this purchase.


Another thought is to shop out each matted image to a frame shop and pay the cost.

Suggestions, comments, your observations et al

Thank you

Raymond

[Richard Wasserman]

I use these— http://www.archivalmethods.com/produ...tal-clear-bags

[Jim Jones]

I use something similar to Richard's. Also, having aluminum frames and backing foamcore handy at an exhibit for customers who don't want the bother of getting matted prints framed is good customer service.

[vinny]

Clearbags.com. Get the ones with the adhesive on the bag, not the flap.

[Drew Wiley]

Make sure the shrink wrap is an inert plastic like polyethylene. Vinyl contains nasty things which outgas and are bad for prints.

[Ginette]

Shrink wrap is polyolefin but also contain most of the time PVC. So it is not good for long term storage.
But can be used for short term shipping. The same thing apply to soft foam, good for shipping but not for long term storage of object.
Buyer should be aware to removed from packaging stuff.
I don't think you should invest into a shrink wrap machine.
Standard polypropylene enveloppe, specifically done for that purpose (like the link posted by Richard) is the way to go. The buyer will be able to store it in that envelope and be able to remove it from to look at the print and put back again in the storage enveloppe.
Your matted image should be on 4 ply back and mat, I recommend rag board, for the difference of the price of a "conservation board" made of wood pulp buffered artificially to alcaline lever by a lot of CaCO3, you will have a much better quality with rag board. Both boards are hinging by linen tape water activated (better that self adhesive). The print is fixed on the back board (not on the back of the mat window). Large mylar corners are perfect if you have large white borders.

[Raymond Bleesz]

Monsieurs et Madame--merci pour votre reponse. Clear Bags pour moi.-- Madame--votra points--c'est important.

Hopla!--Raymond

[ShannonG]

when doing a gallery show i allays get them framed.(most galleys prefer that,im talking university gallery's (not the art gallery store on main st.)for art festivals i show mats without frames on my art fest walls,,if they are in a flip bin then i use the plastic sleeves.not a big fan of how shrink wrap makes my work look. at art fests ,just bare mats,(the customer is gonna frame it to there decor anyway,,but if folks can touch them like a flip bin ,then use a plastic sleeve of some sort to protect them.im in the midst of this right now as i have 45 prints in mats and frames going to a art center solo gallery show,,and 200 in just the matts going to 2 different are fests,some bare for the walls some in plastic for the flip bins.hope this helps,,,,,,,,works for me

[Jim Becia]

Clearbags.com. Get the ones with the adhesive on the bag, not the flap.

I agree with Vinny here. Clear Bags is the way to go. They have all kinds of sizes available. Get the PC bags (protective closure) bags with the adhesive strip on the bag, not the flap, like Vinny mentions. I have been using them for over the last 15 years for my art fair business. Easy and inexpensive to use. Jim

[John Layton]

I also recommend the clear bags with adhesive strip.

Also...be very careful of shrink wrap - in that this can be tight enough to introduce a curvature to the mat, and can seriously deform the mat's corners.