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Thread: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

  1. #11

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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    Quote Originally Posted by Amfooty View Post
    Agitate like that every minute, with 1 full minute initially?
    Well,yes.
    You need to get that thirsty,dry emulsion well acquainted with the developer. This,with any film I have used,benefits from a good 45+ seconds for the initial wet step. Up,Down,Up Down.Knock off airbells.
    Agitation is applied for the rest of the development, from taste to experience, every 30sec (Kodak),to 60s (Ilford), stand develop 60minutes..

  2. #12

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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Gordon Bilson View Post
    Well,yes.
    You need to get that thirsty,dry emulsion well acquainted with the developer. This,with any film I have used,benefits from a good 45+ seconds for the initial wet step. Up,Down,Up Down.Knock off airbells.
    Agitation is applied for the rest of the development, from taste to experience, every 30sec (Kodak),to 60s (Ilford), stand develop 60minutes..
    This is Gospel, all this is in an old Kodak Darkroom Dataguide. Just to be clear the hangers I'm talking about are regular sheet film hangers Like Kodak 4a, (Carr) or equivalent. I'm not talking about x-ray hangers, or weighted film clips. Hangers and rubber tanks are so cheap make sure you get real hangers.

    I've never had any issues, run six sheets of 4 x 5 at a time, with good hangers, in a 1/2 gallon Kodak (Ace) Hard rubber tank, you'll never have an issue, I use an empty tank to hold the loaded hangers, 1 for developer, 1 for stop, 1 for Kodak rapid fix w/hardener, 1 for hypo clearing agent and 1 for wash (5 min after Hypo clear).

    Film has been developed this way for a 100 years, before all the gizmos. The only guys with gaseous burst set ups were big time or stationed on a Battleship in WWII

  3. #13

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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    Quote Originally Posted by Amfooty View Post
    Good afternoon all,

    What is the best method for agitating with hangers in a tank? I have some 8x10 that I want to develop, and I have 8x10 hangers and a 2L tank. The past few trys have been with x-ray film which worked, but there were still some issues--namely the shape of the hanger showing up on the negative.
    If it's a stainless tank hopefully it's a 4 liter tank and you have at least 4 of them (presoak, developer, stop bath & fixer). I have 6 one gal tanks in my water jacket setup so I have water between the stop and fixer plus an extra water at the end to hold. Don't allow to drain when you lift, that causes streaks! From my notes from Oliver Gagliani's workshop; presoak film for 3 min, drain, then into the developer with constant agitation for the first 60 sec. There are 3 hanger motions: raise to the left and replace, raise straight up and replace, raise to the right & replace. Each motion should take 2 sec; 1 sec up then 1 sec to replace. Then agitate for 10 sec each minute after the first. Then 30 sec in stop bath and 3 minutes in fixer with constant agitation. Use one shot developer and throw it away, don't replentish; reuse the fixer. I get even development without any issues. L

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  4. #14
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    I like my 1970's system. Straight out of Calumet Catalog.

    Or save money and buy from http://www.alistairinglis.com/.

    What I like, I can turn on lights in-between solutions and not watch any clocks. The bubbles are relaxing.

    The fix tank is always full. I check potency after each use and count films done.

    I also clean water stop, developer tanks, then refill them with water. Ready and waiting.

    When I want to develop I simply dump 40 ml of Rodinal in and stir. One shot.

    It does 4-8x10, 8-5x7, 16-4x5 very quickly. Very nicely.

    I have no regret I built this system.

    Follow this link to DIY Gas Burst.


    http://www.largeformatphotography.in...=1#post1273507

  5. #15

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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    Quote Originally Posted by Luis-F-S View Post
    If it's a stainless tank hopefully it's a 4 liter tank and you have at least 4 of them (presoak, developer, stop bath & fixer). I have 6 one gal tanks in my water jacket setup so I have water between the stop and fixer plus an extra water at the end to hold. Don't allow to drain when you lift, that causes streaks! From my notes from Oliver Gagliani's workshop; presoak film for 3 min, drain, then into the developer with constant agitation for the first 60 sec. There are 3 hanger motions: raise to the left and replace, raise straight up and replace, raise to the right & replace. Each motion should take 2 sec; 1 sec up then 1 sec to replace. Then agitate for 10 sec each minute after the first. Then 30 sec in stop bath and 3 minutes in fixer with constant agitation. Use one shot developer and throw it away, don't replentish; reuse the fixer. I get even development without any issues. L

    Click image for larger version. 

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    VERY NICE, FREESTYLE IS BRINGING BACK 7 BATH E-6, FujiHunt, Due the end of the year! Your agitation technique is exactly as I remember the old Kodak books. Left, straight up, Right. If you are using multiple hangers, lift them all at once. I've got 3 1/2 gallon tanks with racks that hold 10 or 12 8x10 hangers, you can develop 48 sheets of 4 x5 on 4-ways, I've got a NEW in box Kodak Gaseous burst timer and valve, NEVER had enough film to use the stuff. It's fun to accumulate though. I like those 1 gallon tanks!!

  6. #16

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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Moe View Post
    I like my 1970's system. Straight out of Calumet Catalog.

    Or save money and buy from http://www.alistairinglis.com/.

    What I like, I can turn on lights in-between solutions and not watch any clocks. The bubbles are relaxing.

    The fix tank is always full. I check potency after each use and count films done.

    I also clean water stop, developer tanks, then refill them with water. Ready and waiting.

    When I want to develop I simply dump 40 ml of Rodinal in and stir. One shot.

    It does 4-8x10, 8-5x7, 16-4x5 very quickly. Very nicely.

    I have no regret I built this system.

    Follow this link to DIY Gas Burst.


    http://www.largeformatphotography.in...=1#post1273507
    "The Force is Strong in This One" Just about the best set-up as I could think of.

  7. #17

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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    Quote Originally Posted by Luis-F-S View Post
    If it's a stainless tank hopefully it's a 4 liter tank and you have at least 4 of them (presoak, developer, stop bath & fixer). I have 6 one gal tanks in my water jacket setup so I have water between the stop and fixer plus an extra water at the end to hold. Don't allow to drain when you lift, that causes streaks! From my notes from Oliver Gagliani's workshop; presoak film for 3 min, drain, then into the developer with constant agitation for the first 60 sec. There are 3 hanger motions: raise to the left and replace, raise straight up and replace, raise to the right & replace. Each motion should take 2 sec; 1 sec up then 1 sec to replace. Then agitate for 10 sec each minute after the first. Then 30 sec in stop bath and 3 minutes in fixer with constant agitation. Use one shot developer and throw it away, don't replentish; reuse the fixer. I get even development without any issues. L

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I gave it a shot today and the negatives turned out well! Thanks for the help!

  8. #18

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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    Let me add a plug for using IR goggles - I use the Viper - lets you see what you are doing. Well worth their cost.

  9. #19

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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    Quote Originally Posted by Duolab123 View Post
    VERY NICE, FREESTYLE IS BRINGING BACK 7 BATH E-6, FujiHunt, Due the end of the year! Your agitation technique is exactly as I remember the old Kodak books. Left, straight up, Right. If you are using multiple hangers, lift them all at once. I've got 3 1/2 gallon tanks with racks that hold 10 or 12 8x10 hangers, you can develop 48 sheets of 4 x5 on 4-ways, I've got a NEW in box Kodak Gaseous burst timer and valve, NEVER had enough film to use the stuff. It's fun to accumulate though. I like those 1 gallon tanks!!
    Freestyle began to sell it but must not have ordered enough (seems to happen quite often there). Getting fuji to export stuff ain't easy.
    Luis, he's using a 2L tank. It might be one of mine which holds two hangers, I dunno.

  10. #20
    bob carnie's Avatar
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    Re: Proper Agitation for Dip and Dunk hangers

    I have the same unit exept the tanks are a bit bigger ... I grew up with this system and have no hesitation to go back ... perfect for very large
    film projects where you need to see a lot of film processed in a given time.

    There is the possibiliy of surge marks on edges if you do not do good technique.

    Quote Originally Posted by Luis-F-S View Post
    If it's a stainless tank hopefully it's a 4 liter tank and you have at least 4 of them (presoak, developer, stop bath & fixer). I have 6 one gal tanks in my water jacket setup so I have water between the stop and fixer plus an extra water at the end to hold. Don't allow to drain when you lift, that causes streaks! From my notes from Oliver Gagliani's workshop; presoak film for 3 min, drain, then into the developer with constant agitation for the first 60 sec. There are 3 hanger motions: raise to the left and replace, raise straight up and replace, raise to the right & replace. Each motion should take 2 sec; 1 sec up then 1 sec to replace. Then agitate for 10 sec each minute after the first. Then 30 sec in stop bath and 3 minutes in fixer with constant agitation. Use one shot developer and throw it away, don't replentish; reuse the fixer. I get even development without any issues. L

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WJacket.JPG 
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