Arista Ortho Litho ISO?

[pdh]

Your guess is as good as mine ...

[John Kasaian]

Good advice. I'll try the rodinal 1:200 first, and maybe pull one neg at 30 mins and leave one for an hour to see what happens.

Any idea of a ballpark for reciprocity failure on this stuff?

I develop the stuff under a safe light and in trays, I don't watch the clock but the film and pull it out when the mid tones appear. It doesn't take long even with diluted developer.

[adelorenzo]

Any time I've used paper developer with the stuff (no matter how diluted) I get super high contrast, like basically black or white only. I've also been using highly diluted HC-110, in trays under a safelight, which gives some midtones although still quite contrasty. I've tried shooting at ISO 3 and 6. I haven't gotten anything dialed in yet so I'll be following this thread with interest.

[Cor]

I have had good success with ARISTA's Lith film (old) at Iso 1-3 in Dave's Soemarko's LC1 developer..

A lead can be found here: http://www.apug.org/forums/viewpost.php?p=785308

Good luck,

Cor

[Pamelageewhizz]

I noticed the lack of notchs and figured out a solution, as long as I put the notch on the correct side. I used a hole punch to make a notch at the edge of the film. Works thus far.

[bvy]

I found dilute Centrabrom S to be the magic bullet for ortho litho film. This was done with strobes; scan of the contact print from the 4x5 negative is shown.

[Jim Noel]

The idea of using paper developer for this purpose is quite entrenched, but I've never seen anyone offer a proper rationale for doing so. As you say, they are mostly inherently high contrast .

Very short dev times can give very uneven development with this stuff, as I can vouch from experience. I'd say d76 at 1:1 is way too strong!

I don't understand why people use diluted paper developer for lith, or any other film. Paper developers are inherently much more active than film developers. If you don't believe this, try developing paper in a film developer.

At times I use a lot of lith film in camera. My preferred developer is an adaption of D-23, but when I am not in a mood to mix it I use HC 110 1+225 from syrup,and always develop by inspection.

[AAP]

I purchased a couple packages of this to give it a go in my 5x7. I spent an amazing amount of time sifting through all the advice and guidance and debate across many many forums and websites and in the end was more confused than ever. Well, I determined last night to just take a photo. I've documented this on my blog https://allaspectsphotography.wordpress.com complete with photos, step by step process etc and the photo I made. It's way too much to put here. I hope it proves useful.

I will summarize the essentials though:

ISO 6 shot at f5 at 2 seconds.

Dektol @ 1+30, @ 68F. I think that giving the negative time in the developer is key. I also think that intermittent agitation is the way to go. A stand development approach might prove fruitful.

STOP: was water, tap water, and it comes out of the cold side mid 60s. Around 3 minutes here. I agitated constantly.

FIXER: was Kodak Rapid Fix. I fixed until the negative cleared. This ended up being for around 4 minutes. I agitated constantly.

[Stephen Thomason]

I use paper developer (LPD 1+4) for two minutes. I rate it at ISO 3.

Since the film doesn't have notches, I always "sacrifice" the top sheet and take a look. Then note on the box whether it is emulsion up or emulsion down. If you are shooting through the back, you can still get an image, but it is underexposed.

It took a few sheets and a lot of reading of forum posts to get it "right" (whatever that might mean!).

Keep experimenting - you'll get it figured out.

[Memyself]

Several years ago, from time to time, I used to shoot Kodak Technical Pan (35mm and 120), which is a litho film (not ortho). As I recall, it was rated at ISO 25. At that time Kodak made a developer called Technidol, that was specifically made to develop litho film with the total spectrum of the grey scale. Using this combination of film and developer yielded negatives with exceptionally fine grain ... so fine that a 35mm negative could be enlarged to a 20 x 24 print with virtually no grain visible, even with a loupe! While I don't know if Technidol would work the same with Arista, it likely would be almost impossible to find any. It seems to me,though, that I've seen a similar developer available from Photographers Formulary. Also, I don't remember where, but I recently saw film similar to Tech Pan being offered. Maybe made by FOMA? Good luck!