Help with cyanotype paper

[Frank_E]

your question is interesting
I was faced with the same dilemma
I had Arches Platine on hand which I suspected would work well
but it is not cheap
so I purchased some water-colour paper which was on sale at Curry's in Toronto
Canson Aquarelle
and I was surprised how well it worked
probably just lucky….

I posted my image once before

https://flic.kr/p/ubMXfZ

[Pete Watkins]

I've tried a few and up 'till now it's Fabriano Artistico for me. I think that it's to do with the sizing used.
Pete.

[Bernard_L]

Choose (at the art supply store) a paper with a surface you like (sized...) and a cost you consider reasonable. BUT make sure you eliminate alakalinity by pretreating in dilute citric acid, then dry before normal cyanotype process.

[Randy]

Thanks for all the input - unfortunately, I don't have an art supply store in my area, so for now I have to order any paper with no way for me to compare surfaces. I have ordered, along with my initial chem purchase from Bostick & Sullivan 25 sheets of 11X15 Stonehenge. I hope it works.

[koraks]

Classic cyanotype isn't particularly fussy about papers, although some work better than others. Anything that leaves a yellow stain even after washing for 5+ minutes should be discarded or pre-treated with a dilute acid, although I've had limited Succes with that approach. I find that an acid wash tends to leave a layer of chalk binder on the paper surface unless the washing procedure is very extensive, which I find bothersome. I've settled on a paper from Schut, a Dutch mill. I think it's only available in Europe, but it works quite well even with the new cyanotype process. Fabriano papers work quite well I understand and I've tried one, but it's a bit too textured for my taste. You'll have to experiment a bit. Fortunately, it's generally possible to find a paper that works and isn't expensive.

[Fr. Mark]

I like Arches Hot Press which I had around for water color painting. It should be treated with Acid (I used 5% HCl which is really drastic compared to dilute citrate) to remove the chalk. I've found paper to really matter but sometimes even old typing paper works nicely!

[Cor]

Canson Fontenay (I prefer the smooth side)
Simili Japon

Best,

Cor

[pdh]

I'll throw a couple into the pot:

Two Rivers paper, which comes in three weights, is very heavily gelatine sized, and doesn't seem to be need any acidification. It's extremely robust in wet processes and doesn't flop about or crack or tear. Probably not easy to get hold of outside the UK, it's hand made in very small quantities. Beautiful "knotted" surface which you'll either love or not. It's technically a NOT paper but the size is so heavy it has a certain smoothness even though the texture is quite heavy

Daler-Rowney Mixed Media "Optima" paper. Single weight (250gsm/169lb), in A-sizes up to A2. Really robust, washes really quickly, slightly different surfaces front and rear, doesn't need acidification or sizing, but if you want to experiment with that it doesn't complain at all. I'm collaborating in a location-specific art piece making cyanos this weekend and I'll be using the Daler.
I'd have thought it would be available in many territories, Daler being such a big supplier of artists' materials.

I've settled on a paper from Schut, a Dutch mill. I think it's only available in Europe, but it works quite well

Which particular Schut paper ? They make quite a few so far as I can see (it does appear to be available in the US, btw)

[Jim Noel]

Crane's Kid Finish stationery ecruwhite has been my favorite for a number of alternative processes including cyanotype. I've also made some nice cyanotypes on Bienfang Graphic 360 Art Marker paper though it is difficult to handle.

Here's one on the Bienfang from an 8x10 negative. It has a nice translucency to it.



Truthfully, cyanotypes like garbage acid papers so even a grocery bag will give good results with the process.

A second for Cranes Kid Finish. Lightweight,cheap, and works well with this and other alt processes.

[Fr. Mark]

The chemist in me feels like I should point out you can make prints with Dr. Mike Ware's New Cyanotype solution on the Arches Hot Press, but as the cyanotype chemistry/Prussian blue is bleached to an orange/yellow by small amounts of base I.e. 1 tsp/liter of sodium carbonate it you let it go to long, I figured it was a really good idea to get rid of internal chalk /calcium carbonate in the paper if Inexpected the image to last long. Some acid free papers are buffered with chalk to make sure they stay acid free.

Also Dr. Ware has some recommendations of papers on his site, being he's in the UK, I've not pursued them much figuring availability would be a challenge in the U.S. And my art money is in short supply at the moment so no new paper til I use up what I have!