Enlarger Head Adapter Plate for Durst 138s

[jbmia]

Hey guys... thought some of you might find this interesting...

I picked up a Durst 138s (actually a 139, as it has the 184 base) a while ago and one of the ideas I've toyed with is replacing the condenser head with another light source. I’ve considered a DIY multigrade LED head, but have been hampered with the engineering and programming (e.g., power supply, cooling, color temp, arduino code, etc) and kept on coming back to the thought of just tossing an old Beseler 45S atop it. To get anywhere close to heading in that direction, the first thing I needed was an adapter plate I could use as a platform for the change. And, that’s what this post is all about …

I acquired a piece of 3/8″ thick 5052 aluminum plate some time back and finally got around to measuring, and measuring, and measuring, and cutting it into something that meets the need. The main challenge ties back to my repetitive use of the term “measure” above. With one piece of aluminum, there wasn’t much room for error. I wanted to make sure that I hit the mounting holes nice and true and of course, the opening for the light source had to be at least the size of Durst negative carrier. The hard part is making sure the light source opening is perfectly positioned to sit right on top of the negative carrier when it’s properly seated. So, many measurements and several poster board practice templates later, I’m happy to say I nailed it and have near perfect positioning between the light source opening and the mounting holes. I’m not a machinist or anything, so the cuts were made with a carbide tipped blade on a miter saw, an aluminum cutting blade on my cheapo jig saw, and a cheapo harbor freight drill press to make sure the mounting holes were nice and straight. 5052 aluminum alloy makes a big mess, but it's pretty easy to work with....

It’s still in process as I’ve got some cleaning up to do on it, probably a couple more holes to hold down the “Super Chromega D Dichroic II” I came across recently, and then some primer and paint. Just a rough cut at this point, but thought it would interesting for those with this same enlarger. I’m quite happy with the way it’s turned out so far. If any one needs measurements or tips, don’t hesitate to reach out…

http://appetite4light.com/2015/06/du...-adapter-plate for more details and updates...

[Luis-F-S]

Very nice. Could also put an Aristo cold light head on it, or a larger Chromega F head on it. "Newvision" makes something similar that he sells with one of his kits. I'd thought about doing the same thing to my Durst until I got a Durst Dichroic CLS head for it. Now the Durst is in storage since I got my De Vere 5108. How are you going to secure the head on the plate?

[jbmia]

Very nice. Could also put an Aristo cold light head on it, or a larger Chromega F head on it. "Newvision" makes something similar that he sells with one of his kits. I'd thought about doing the same thing to my Durst until I got a Durst Dichroic CLS head for it. Now the Durst is in storage since I got my De Vere 5108. How are you going to secure the head on the plate?

Thanks! I actually picked up an Aristo D2 head for $15 on eBay about a month back.. I've been playing with RA4 on an AC800, so I like the flexibility of the Dichro heads... I've been on the hunt for one of the CLS heads since I got into the 138, but they're so rare... Same for the Chromega E & F's...

So, I came across a Dichroic D II at a good price and figured it'll do for now, since I don't really do anything with 5x7 at this point anyway. In terms of mounting, there are a few options. I have the original mounting brackets that are fixed to the side screws and I'll probably just bolt it down using those brackets. Nothing too complicated or fancy. I want to keep it a flexible platform where I can pull one head off and throw another one on easily, so whatever I do, it'll be with an eye for that flexibility.

Enjoy that 5108... That's a completely different level of course.. Wow.

(If anyone runs across or has a CLS head or an Omega E/F they want to get rid of at a reasonable price, I'm on the hunt for one... )

[Luis-F-S]

(...... at a reasonable price, I'm on the hunt for one... )

That's usually the problem. I'll probably sell mine at some point in the future, but I'm just not ready to do it just yet. And reasonable of course is relative. L

[Drew Wiley]

Yes, these adapter plates are fairly easy to make. And congratulations for having all your fingers left and not getting electrocuted when using that Harbor Freight
press.

[jbmia]

Yes, these adapter plates are fairly easy to make. And congratulations for having all your fingers left and not getting electrocuted when using that Harbor Freight
press.

In all seriousness.. anyone attempting this should be very careful. I'd say the most dangerous part was actually the miter saw. The blade has a tendency to want to catch the aluminum and eat backwards, so if you're not careful you can over cut your template drawn lines (and maybe a finger). That said, the miter saw makes really quick work of the cuts it can make.. Much better than banging your head apart with the jig saw.. I only used it for the interior corners. I'm usually pretty careful anyway, but this is a loud messy task, so I used leather gloves, full facial and hearing protection for the job. Still didn't get out without a small case of road rash on a my first finger though... the angle grinder kicked back and got me when I didn't have my gloves on... Careful out there guys. Custom fabrication is expensive, but so are emergency rooms...

[Drew Wiley]

That's a lack in basic mitre saw technique. I cut aluminum all the time. There's a way to do it; and of course you need the right kind of blade for the job. Some
homeowner type did come in here one weekend, when I don't work, and bought a top-of-the-line three grand mitre saw. He had no idea what he was doing. Then
he let his twelve year old son loose on the thing with a bar of aluminum (wood blade, no clamps). Lucky for him the bar of aluminum wrapped itself backwards and ruined the saw housing rather than his arm. The warranty doesn't cover stupidity. Four hundred dollar repair. Lucky it wasn't a forty thousand dollar ambulance ride and hospital stay. If I had the opportunity to pre-screen that particular customer, I would have simply refused to sell him any kind of saw. Go somewhere else to kill yourself. I'm here to help finance the company, not ambulance chasers. Nothing is worth getting mangled for.

[jbmia]

That's a lack in basic mitre saw technique. I cut aluminum all the time. There's a way to do it; and of course you need the right kind of blade for the job. Some
homeowner type did come in here one weekend, when I don't work, and bought a top-of-the-line three grand mitre saw. He had no idea what he was doing. Then
he let his twelve year old son loose on the thing with a bar of aluminum (wood blade, no clamps). Lucky for him the bar of aluminum wrapped itself backwards and ruined the saw housing rather than his arm. The warranty doesn't cover stupidity. Four hundred dollar repair. Lucky it wasn't a forty thousand dollar ambulance ride and hospital stay. If I had the opportunity to pre-screen that particular customer, I would have simply refused to sell him any kind of saw. Go somewhere else to kill yourself. I'm here to help finance the company, not ambulance chasers. Nothing is worth getting mangled for.

Yep. Thanks for the input Drew. Sounds like you're pretty familiar with these things. It came out great though... I've got measurements if anyone needs them. For those interested, here's some more pics: