That made me smile. Been there.I'm tired of rickety, worn out museum pieces.
So it seems that the strength of the front standard is the critical part. Correct? How does the V8 Deardorff fair in that regard?
That made me smile. Been there.I'm tired of rickety, worn out museum pieces.
So it seems that the strength of the front standard is the critical part. Correct? How does the V8 Deardorff fair in that regard?
If you can handle the extra 3-5 pounds of weight, the most solid 8x10 field camera I have ever used is the Toyo 810M or 810MII.
I've had a dorff. Too floppy
What did you end up getting Jac?
Another nice thing about Toyo, is that it accepts a decent lens hood that can handle large lenses.
Please don't turn this into a multi- page discussion on modern 8x10 cameras. Do that in Cameras & Accessories Then after you narrow down put a WTB for that camera.
Moved.
Calumet Black Beast. It is a b*tch to carry, but remains the most sturdy and accurate 8x10 I have ever used. My others are a Deardorff V8 (too damned heavy), and a pristine Century 1 (too light!) - oh, and a Century studio camera but while that doesn't count, it handles any big brass lens.What did you end up getting Jac?
Thanks Oren.
That C1 may be the best choice for a "sturdy" 8x10 w/ front movements if your using the camera with heavy barrel lenses. My modern light weight 8x10 camera is the worst choice when I use my heavy barrel. That's why I have several 8x10s for different uses.
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