An alternative material, by Ben Horne. (08:10)
https://youtu.be/1hWtiJSMckQ
An alternative material, by Ben Horne. (08:10)
https://youtu.be/1hWtiJSMckQ
His very appropriate mount material is about a penny width, as he puts it. However it it is not adjustable.Originally Posted by Eliverto
My sample penny, slight worn, is 0.58" which is 1.47 mm which is 'good enough' to be 1.5 mm. So...
I use a height of 3 mm.
Solutions vary.
Tin Can
Thanks ! What I like with the rubber material is that I believe there is then essentially no risk of scratching the scanner glass.
For the aluminum piece, 70-80 USD is too much to my taste - well worth the price but over my threshold for not doing something myself. Too bad my plasma cutter is not on a cnc. Plasma cutter, router, whatever... Once on a CNC machine, the actual cutting is a matter of seconds (but that obviously does not consider the time spent to optimize the different pieces on a big sheet, procuring the big sheet, checking the result of each sheet, paying for the CNC machine etc...) CNC plasma cutter will provide a really clean cut requiring minimal finishing (much better than what I can do with the cutter by hand).
The milling has the added advantage of enabling a recessed lip if wanted but otherwise, I would inquire into laser cutting outfit.
Simply as a potential customer expressing my desires, at that price, I would prefer to be looking at a piece of polished (to avoid scratches) stainless steel for strength.
As for the recess (which I suppose is the rebate in proper english), if is very narrow, as to allow to view practically the whole negative, one thing to consider could be 8x10 sheet film dimension variability (if there are any between batches/manufacturers). One thing I would really like with the recess is that I believe that it would prevent any light from the scanner light diffracting past the film edges... Hum.. I will wait and see what others have to say. That rebate (if that is the proper word) could then really provide an advantage but only along the very edges of the scanned negative ... And maybe some thin felt could be used under the aluminum to protect the glass...
Thanks for the thread, initiative and sharing your experience. Looking forward to further developments, and comments...
Pierre Leduc
Following link is just a recent sample, pending presentable Large Format production...
HTML Code:https://www.flickr.com/photos/132200218@N02/
Thanks for posting this! This sure does make things a lot simpler and gives everyone the opportunity to make one for themselves.
Had one of these precision milled from plain steel by a local machine shop and painted matte black. Chose steel, 1st, because the shop had 1.2 mm material in stock, which would allow for shimming to greater height if necessary, and 2nd, for the ability to try magnets for film holding at some later date.
I used the dimensions on the original drawing, except for the height of the inside hole. I specified 246 mm, not 248 mm, based on my own measurements which showed that to be the proper height for the actual image area of my negatives. I shot with mostly older Fidelity and Lisco holders; perhaps the original author's negatives were different.
The frame came out flat, and did not require taping to the scanner. The slightly greater weight of steel vs. aluminum or plastic helped. And as you can see from the attached, I needed very little magic tape to stretch and attach a negative. If worried about scratching the scanner glass, one could either put a bit of tape or the original Epson film area guide under the frame . However, the frame was perfectly smooth and deburred inside and out.
My machinist was John Zug at Quicksilver Precision Tool in Florissant, Colorado, a small town west of Colorado Springs. (http://www.quicksilvertool.com/) As he says on his homepage, he specializes in custom surgical instruments and positioner fabrication. The execution was excellent++. Serious work — see the attached photos. It could've been made by Epson. I paid seventy-five dollars with painting, but John said he feels he would need to get at least ninety dollars to do them one off manually. He does have a CNC mill however, and said there could be significant savings if he could get orders for at least five at a time, which would justify programming the part for the CNC machine. Other materials are available. Shipping would be extra.
John gave me his permission to post his info, and would welcome inquiries directly from forum members.
Frame being milled.
I made three of these holders, the first using the dimensions given on Ben Dolmans' website. A test scan with this first one showed the image out of alignment top to bottom - far enough out of alignment so as to be basically unusable. So for the next one I altered the dimensions to make the hole for the film to be 245mm long (very close to the value suggested by Chuck). I made the top cutout (the area used for scanner calibration) the same size as shown on the website (12mm), and decreased the top bar width to 11mm (as opposed to the original 18mm).
A test scan on the second holder showed that these new dimensions would work for me so I made the final holder to the same dimensions. I would recommend making a mockup for yourself out of matboard or some other easily workable material before committing to cutting metal.
Bob
We should make a sticky thread for 8x10 scanning with the V series. It seems there a bunch of techniques, each with pros and cons. Home made area guides, wet mounting, ANR glass overlays etc... It would be nice if you could look in one thread and get a really good idea of how to approach the subject. I am on the fence between buying a sheet of ANR glass, using it as an overlay with pennys at the edges, and copying Ben Horne's rubber overlay solution. I really would prefer to be able to get a good scan with the film edges in tact. Searching around the forum just seems less efficient... :-)
I'll work on it after I play around with a solution, if somebody doesn't beat me to it!
I'd be really interested in something like this to improve my 8x10 scans on my V750
Well I found a piece of matte board that is the right thickness so I tried to cut one of these frames out using that. What a mess! It's challenging with only rulers and an exacto, also the board leaves rough edges and is difficult to perfect. I think I'm going to look for one of the rubberized pads. I was able to do a test scan and the image was sharp though, so for me that was a huge bit of motivation.
Has anybody been able to scan the film holder edges with mounting frames they've made? Ultimately that's what I'd like to do.
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