I'd like to give it a shot. I've had good success in the past with 35mm and a F2.8 lens with TMY in the past but my fastest LF lenses are F-6.3(Ektar)and F/5 (Petzval) and my film will be Ilford HP-5+
Any thoughts or suggestions?
I'd like to give it a shot. I've had good success in the past with 35mm and a F2.8 lens with TMY in the past but my fastest LF lenses are F-6.3(Ektar)and F/5 (Petzval) and my film will be Ilford HP-5+
Any thoughts or suggestions?
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
The issue might be how you wish the star tracks to appear. If you want them crisp and as narrow as possible, then you will need to close down a few stops to get the sharpest image.
Shooting wide open will widen the star tracks a little and one needs to be careful to have the standards and lens perfectly aligned.
"Landscapes exist in the material world yet soar in the realms of the spirit..." Tsung Ping, 5th Century China
I get the best results using f/8, on Provia usually. I still have a stash of T64 though that I prefer for the tungsten color balance. If using Provia, I usually shoot it with an 80B filter, opened up a stop.
1-2 hours minimum.
Example, on T64, using a 58mm XL. Compressed scan, sorry:
I love doing startrails but I haven't in a long time. Very few places near here to do it at, and little to no time (plus weather has been unfavorable!).
Oh, and don't use 400 speed film. Reciprocity kicks in and at the long exposures for these kinds of shots, pretty much any modern 100-speed T-grain film will be "more" sensitive to light than a 400-speed film.
Acros would be the best choice for a b&w film. TMX will work too but with a bit less sensitivity.
Realistically, the fastest aperture you can use is best. When I shot this last image my 75mm f/4.5 Biogon was in the shop getting a CLA. It would've been a better choice (and easier to focus).
How about Delta?Originally Posted by Corran
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
Years ago my best star trail was for 10 or 11 hours at f/6.3 on Tech Pan.
It's easier than you think. Between f4.5 to f8 will work with film ISO 100 - 400. A wider aperture catches dimmer stars. More important is keeping the camera absolutely steady, and avoiding unwanted man made light sources. Find a small bit of landscape to include in the photo. Include the North Star for a central point of rotation. Moonless nights are usually better. For a fascinating photo, set the aperture to f8, and open the shutter for 6-8 hours from beginning of darkness to before the first faint dawn light. Don't forget to set the alarm clock and let the sun begin to rise like I have done. And condensation on the lens can happen. Check it every 30 minutes to an hour during the exposure.
I think Delta has worse reciprocity than most T-grain emulsions. It should still work but slightly worse?How about Delta?
Neat, I'd like to see that!
Did something similar on TMax100 (4x5) in the bottom of the Grand Canyon. But I fell asleep and did not wake up in time.
"Landscapes exist in the material world yet soar in the realms of the spirit..." Tsung Ping, 5th Century China
Guys, since stars are pinpoint light source it is the real aperture dimension that is important not the f number. Nobody of you saw discussions of this point in the past of this forum? Check the archive.
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