Sinar F2, P, C, or Toyo 45G?

[jonbrisbincreative]

Besides at least $150 difference between the F2 and the P or C, is there a measurable benefit to springing for at least the C (which seems like a compromise between an F and a P) and going "whole hog" with the P?

I have an RZ67 and a Speed Graphic folder for the portable stuff already but I'm looking into monorails and I've narrowed it down to a Sinar or a Toyo 45GII. I will have to transport the camera no matter what as I have no studio. I do on-location Fine Art (yeah, I'm one of those , Environmental Portraiture, and Documentary style photography and I'm trying to put together a system I can use for urban and "field" street and environmental portraiture this summer. I'm looking for something I can drag around the streets of a disadvantaged neighborhood to do portraits for people on Fuji pack instant film, digital with Instax, and work my way into true 4x5 (and later 8x10). I'd really like to try paper negatives as well, so whatever I get needs to accommodate that as well.

The biggest drawback I can see to the Sinar from what I've read is that you can't really use the Polaroid back in the vertical position because of the standard. I haven't heard whether the F suffers from this as the comments I've read seem to be related to the P. I'm looking at maybe a C because I like the idea of the geared movements like the Toyo but I also think the Sinar might suit me better in that it seems to be more portable.

Any "field" shooters out there that can comment on using Sinars with instant and roll film backs in addition to the traditional 4x5 film (or paper) negative?

[Luis-F-S]

And you plan on using a Polaroid back often? I haven't used one in at least 18 years, and I've taken thousands of architectural shots........F2.

[jonbrisbincreative]

And you plan on using a Polaroid back often? I haven't used one in at least 18 years, and I've taken thousands of architectural shots........F2.

I use the FP100C instant film in my RZ67 and people are very enthusiastic when I hand them a real, physical print they can keep. It's a conversation piece and way to earn their trust that I'm not there to simply poach their image and leave them with nothing. The Polaroids cost me money and it's something unique they can keep if they want.

I get the same reaction with the Instax mini printer I carry in my ThinkTank bag along with my X-T1. It's great to be able to get a real, physical image in ~2 minutes that I can hand to people. The reaction is almost universally: "oh, cool! that is so neat!" It's a great conversation piece, just like the big bulky cameras I lug around when I've got a perfectly capable digital camera in my bag anyway.

[Peter De Smidt]

You can't use a polaroid back with a Sinar? If I can find my back, I'll check that for you. It sounds unlikely...

[jonbrisbincreative]

You can't use a polaroid back with a Sinar? If I can find my back, I'll check that for you. It sounds unlikely...

It's my understanding that on the Sinar C/P rear standard with the 405 back, the dark slide can't be pulled out easily because it points down toward the standard since the tabs point up and the slide is on the opposite side from the tabs, just like the back for my RZ67 is. I haven't heard about the whether that holds true for the F or not, which is what prompted my question.

I hate that I can't use the back on my RZ in vertical orientation (it won't even go on in that direction) but it doesn't make much difference anyway as the image is actually the entire size of the back opening, a little larger than 6x7 film. I was hoping to use the pack film in the 4x5 to get the entire image area filled up and used efficiently in either horizontal or portrait (but my main concern is portrait orientation since I do a lot of those).

[Peter De Smidt]

Got it. I had a different Polaroid holder, a 545, and it worked just fine in a Sinar P, but everything is done from the top with my holder.

[Luis-F-S]

Works with the 545......L



There's an entire thread on this:

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...me-4x5-cameras

[Drew Wiley]

Well if you can find a clean Sinar "P" for only $150 more than an "F", you'd better buy several of them. Or maybe you're just missing another zero behind $150?
But once you start lugging around a P outside the studio you might have serious second thoughts. You'll also need a lot beefier tripod to support the extra weight.
Don't bother with the "C" option. Those were never common to begin with, and most of the ones listed for sale nowadays are simply cobbled together with leftover mismatched standards. An F2 is a lot better than an F1, which in turn is way better than an F+ or Alpina. My own favorite for portability is the Sinar Norma. Better
build than any of the F's but only about a pound heavier. But these are older cameras, so finding them in good condition takes a bit of patience sometimes.

[jonbrisbincreative]

Works with the 545......L



There's an entire thread on this:

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...me-4x5-cameras

That thread is where I've gotten what little understanding I have about this. But I didn't see a Sinar F specifically mentioned as working with the 405, hence my question here to anyone who might have tried it.

I know the 545 works but since that film isn't available any more that doesn't do me much good. I'm really looking for people with direct experience with the 405 holder in a Sinar.

That said, I'm starting to lean towards the Toyo for the geared, repeatable movements and rotating back, which I will use. Not having either on the Graphic can be frustrating because it's hard to make precise adjustments for when I want to make minor changes in composition which I have a tendency to do.

I also have a Bogen 3050+3047 head on the way that I picked up for a good price, although I think my current setup would work. I just wasn't sure about the rectangular QR plate so opted to get one with the hex plate which should be stronger.

[Ari]

Honestly, if you're looking at monorails, you can't go wrong with a Toyo G/GII.
They aren't as sophisticated as a Sinar P, but they are every bit as precise and well-built, and they are a little lighter.
If you plan on using a head with any of these cameras, make sure it's a heavy-duty ball head or rock-solid 3-way head.

FWIW, I had problems using the 405 back on the Sinar; the 405 didn't fit under the GG (it did on the Toyo), and when it was attached, it interfered with the camera.
A Norma is also a good choice, but harder to find at a reasonable price.
The G-series is based on the Norma, and accessories are plentiful and inexpensive.