#2. If the mat is slightly off-white, that border can be toned down to match the mat. This emphasizes the highlights in the image.
#2. If the mat is slightly off-white, that border can be toned down to match the mat. This emphasizes the highlights in the image.
Darkroom prints - white border removed, dry mounted on archival board, overmat with same archival board with 3/8" borders top and sides, 1/2" bottom to allow for signature below print on mount board.
Archival inkjet prints - similar to above, but print usually not dry mounted. I'll leave a 1-1/2" to 2" white border around image and attach print to mount board using corner mounts. Overmatting same as above. Print signed in lower right corner directly on white print border.
I've found that dry mounting inkjet prints works fine (same manner as darkroom prints). However, as Vinny mentioned, some papers do not cut easily, are difficult to handle or "flake" a bit after cutting. Therefore great care is required with such papers. For that reason, I use the second method above with problem prone paper.
I know just enough to be dangerous !
Do what looks good and actually complements the print itself. Think of matting and presentation as an extension of the whole aesthetic process. Second, it should
also serve the function of protecting the print during handling and display, if long-term value is a factor. Flush-mounting has long been popular for big prints intended as casual decor, but I never do that personally.
I like really precise borders for my prints. I usually print a bit extra of the image area and then trim down precisely with a rolling trimmer. This means dry-mounting for me and an overmat with an oversize cut-out so the print borders are clearly visible. For 11x14 prints, I usually leave 3/8 inch top and sides and about 1/2 inch on the bottom. I sign on the mounting board.
As far as I am concerned, the print and the board to which it is dry-mounted constitute the finished work. I hinge overmats with linen tape; they can be replaced if needed in the future if they get damaged, etc.
Best,
Doremus
#1 because I like the look, and on balance it seems a reasonable approach that has been fairly popular over the time, though if someone asks for #2 I'm happy to oblige.
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