Biginners questions on developing, what do I really need

[michael g]

Hi

So I read a lot of the threads here, youtube, forums etc, but there are some I still haven't found out or at least people answer differently to, and I don't really know why or what the consequenses are.

I'm starting out on developing medium format film, and i found that Kodak, Ilford, Patterson etc would like me to buy a lot of stuff and I'm not really shure if I need it all
Because of regulations and price on shipping it needs to be in powder form.

Developer: Kodak d-76 is the only I found in powder form. I read some reuse it, just adding a bit of time. Is it a bad idea? Developing negatives is a one shot deal, so if they turn out bad, it's hard to fix

Stop bath: I'll go with just washing. Some say you can use White vinagre

Fixer: Kodak fixer

Here is where I come in doubt if I really need all that

Clearing agent?
As I understand it saves washing time, but if you buy a hose, patterson etc you can also cut Down on the washing time to about the same

Wetting agent
Some use dish washer soap, neutral type with no parfume. Is it a bad idea?

Destilled Water.
Is it better than wetting agent?

Squeegie: Having a Tool wipe the surface of my film, sounds like the perfect way to some day ruin negatives. I'll just use my fingers

Hanging clips I'll use the ones for hanging clothes to dry one or two in each end

Again there is the problem with shipping fluids, so that's why I'm looking for alternatives, without ruining my negatives

Is a Holga a bad idea?
Will it be hard for me to see if its bad processing or the "Holga effect"

M

[welly]

This is actually a forum for large format not medium format but your questions are still mostly relevant to large format.

Developer: Kodak d-76 is the only I found in powder form. I read some reuse it, just adding a bit of time. Is it a bad idea? Developing negatives is a one shot deal, so if they turn out bad, it's hard to fix

What you proposed is a bad idea. You mix up the powder with 4 litres of water, as per the instructions, and then store it in an ideally non-clear bottle. D76 is a one-shot developer - ie. you use it once and then throw it away. Luckily it's cheap enough that you can afford to do that.

Stop bath: I'll go with just washing. Some say you can use White vinagre

I personally just use water as a stop bath for negatives. I'm no expert but I understand it's better to use a proper stop bath when you're printing. But negatives, you'll be good with water - I'm sure some people on here will tell you otherwise and some people will agree with me.

Clearing agent?
As I understand it saves washing time, but if you buy a hose, patterson etc you can also cut Down on the washing time to about the same

Never use it myself and I don't know anyone who does but I'm sure some of the older guys on here do.

Wetting agent
Some use dish washer soap, neutral type with no parfume. Is it a bad idea?

Wetting agent is cheap as chips and lasts forever. A bottle of photoflo is about $5 and you only need a drip of it. I've used dish washing soap - bubbles everywhere for ages. I'd keep looking, you must be able to source some of this locally.

Destilled Water.
Is it better than wetting agent?

Can't help you here. I understand some people use wetting agent in distilled water but that sounds a bit too particular for me. But then my processes are a bit rough around the edges.

Is a Holga a bad idea?
Will it be hard for me to see if its bad processing or the "Holga effect"

It's a camera! A camera is never a bad idea. Not sure you'll get too much advice about such things (Holgas) here though.

[koraks]

For a stop bath, I just use plain tap water. I've also used diluted vinegar. I noted no differences in fixer lifetime, but I don't keep detailed records on it.

As a wash agent, I just use a few drops of dishwasher shine. Works well enough. With roll film, I usually squeegee or dry the backside of the film with a bit of paper towel. Works well enough for me and any lint from the paper towels can be removed once the film is dry. Squeegeeing tends to leave nasty scratches so I wouldn't recommend that.

[michael g]

I'd just say that I DO want to get into LF, but MF is sort of crawling before you walk step for me, to get the basics right before it all gets large and complicated - and expencive

[Aerial]

Used to use 99% isopropyl alcohol instead of a wetting agent, it displaces all the water in the film and dries immediately. Stop bath just halts the development process faster, water is fine.

[ShannonG]

your on the right track,just go for it,,take notes and learn.film squeegees are nice but for now you can use your fingers. No stop bath needed,use just watter,,a clearing agent is good but really not needed for now.You dont have to spend a lot of $$ on developing for now,just buy a lot of film and learn,,,have fun....

[michael g]

So you pretty much agree on:
developer -> do what it says on the box (I thought so)
stop bath -> Water
Fixer -> as it says on the box
Clearing agent -> no
Squeegee Tool -> no

So it's Down to wetting agent. Where I live it has to be shipped from abroad, its expensive and not a lot of stores ship fluids. I think I'll start with a drop of soap, if it doesn't Work out I'll somehow get some real wetting agent.

Do you just use tab Water or distilled Water?

I think being new there are too many variables for me to start with mixing my own developer, so I'll start out with Kodak d76, but it seems like it is just as easy with d-23, I'll have to try that one time.
But I have also seen people do amazing stuff with alternative processing of images. It has been really inspireing
But for now I'll start with film and I cant wait to get started

[John Kasaian]

Tap or distilled? It depends on the quality of water coming out of your tap. I have hard (lots of minerals & crud) water, so I use distilled water for mixing chemicals.
Since you're developing medium format, you'll probably want a Patterson tank and reel & a pair of scissors(for taking off the backing paper) handy.

[Jeff Dexheimer]

Fixer - use Ken Lee's recommendation.

I use two bath "art fix" from formulary. It's the same idea. No hypo, so no need for hypo clear.

[Jmarmck]

1. Freestylephoto will ship liquid HC-110. It is easier to use as a one shot developer....for me anyway.
2. I only use stop bath when I am on the road in a motel room to cut down on water use.
3. Fixer as recommended
4. I do not use hypoclear unless I am on the road, again, a water use thing. Normally I rinse with running water for about an hour.
5. Wetting agent. I will use photoflo or simply dip in distilled water.
6. I do not touch the film with anything until dry.

I use a string and clothespins or if roll film I will use binder clips and some weight at the bottom (washers still in the plastic bag attached to film with binder clips)