People tend to believe these online calculators with their tenths or hundredths of a decimal place precision a little too much. There is such a thing as false precision.
Hyperfocal distance focusing will not give you perfectly sharp backgrounds as your foreground. It will only result in "close as possible" results, setting aside the other inherent limitations of lenses and haze/diffraction etc. What you're counting on when using hyperfocal focusing is that the blurriness of the background that results from this, is within the "normal" existing level of blurriness of the photo, so viewers can't detect it...as much.
Mathematics: For a lens focused at infinity, the smallest object that can be resolved effectively has the same size as the focal length divided by the aperture of the lens. Once you focus closer, that equation changes inevitably, and things become harder to resolve..
I follow this advice
The general rule for scenic photographs, where one wishes to maximize the depth of field, is as follows. Set the focus at the distance of the most distant object. Then set the lens opening to the size of the smallest object to be resolved in the foreground. No calculations needed!
http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/DOFR.html
Frankly, this effort to create pin-sharp backgrounds in landscape photography bugs me a little. We humans evolved to perceive depth, partly by the level of bluriness of things. It looks sort of HDR-ish when everything, from a rock nearby to a distant mountain peak, is pin-sharp.
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