Doran developing tank

[moltogordo]

I'm a comeback-to-4x5 guy and am readying myself for a return to the format by getting my Linhof Kardan in shape, loading up film holders, and all of the other exciting things that go with it.

My frustration before is with developing tanks for 4x5. I finally ended up developing two sheets at a time in total darkness in 5x7 trays, and then using my 6x7 back, then just going to medium format.

I do have a developing tank, an old bakelite job by Doran. Got some iffy results, often uneven. It's the agitation thing. Can't afford a Jobo and that thing by Paterson looks like Steven Seagal could use it to kill rogue CIA operatives, but . . . . does it work?

Lately, I've been thinking that the Doran might be just the ticket to develop say, 6 sheets of film via the stand developing method, with either Rodinal at 1:100 for an hour, or HC110 at the same dilution for about 40 minutes.

Any input or suggestions to this regard would be great, because I just don't want to go back to developing 2 sheets at a time.

[miesnert]

I have been struggeling with uneven development as well. I have now solved this by doing stand development with the taco method in my FR daylight tank.
Only tried it once, but so far it seems to give me great results.

[esearing]

I have used an aegus tank with hangers and got good results with lots of agitation. It drains and fills slowly, and makes a mess while shaking. I just bought a Yankee tank and will try it soon.

[koh303]

I do have a developing tank, an old bakelite job by Doran. Got some iffy results, often uneven. It's the agitation thing. Can't afford a Jobo and that thing by Paterson looks like Steven Seagal could use it to kill rogue CIA operatives, but . . . . does it work?

Suggest you read the MANY threads on the MOD54.
Think about how much money it costs to get 2 uneven sheets, time wasted etc., then ask how many sheets you plan to shoot in your life time. Multiply that by the first number, then check again if it might not be work to save the heart ache, and so much money to buy a proper processing tool, such as a MOD54, Jobo tank, et al.

[esearing]

I lost two sheets out of 7 in the Yankee tank. They slipped out of the holder slots and wound up under the light trap. Thing was easy to load in the light and damn near impossible in the dark. Mod 54 is looking better. Tray developing in the dark is looking better than using that Yankee tank again.

[R.K]

Never had any problems with Doran tank.

[MrFujicaman]

Hey Gordo...good to see someone from the Pop Photo forum here ! I use Unicolor 8 X 10 drums and a Unicolor "Uniroller" motor base when I do 4 X5. It's always worked for me. The trick is to find the little rubber "M" shaped dividers that prevent the sheets from sliding around and getting stuck together. I have used a piece of slit plastic tubing in place of the "m's" a few times.

[esearing]

I lost two sheets out of 7 in the Yankee tank. They slipped out of the holder slots and wound up under the light trap. Thing was easy to load in the light and damn near impossible in the dark. Mod 54 is looking better. Tray developing in the dark is looking better than using that Yankee tank again.

Update: For the Yankee tank film holder someone suggested gluing the adjustable film holder mechanism to the 4x5 position. However, I used two rubber bands to lock it in place. I can still change it if I shoot a smaller 6x9 or other format. Once the holder is stabilized it works fine.

[AtlantaTerry]

I bought a couple dozen Kodak #4A stainless steel film processing racks from various eBay and Craigslist sellers. I figure those will never be made again so get them while I can.

I looked around to find what inexpensive tanks would accept 10 to 12 of the holders. I finally found some in the local Dollar Tree store. They are a rectangular plastic tub that holds something like 110 ounces of fluid. $1 each and that includes a lid.

To process film, I first block out the bathroom window with black foam cards cut to shape, also from Dollar Tree. Then I hang a thick light-tight fabric from Jo Ann Fabrics in front of the window because some light will get around the black cards.
Then I line the tubs up on the bathroom sink counter: Pre-Rinse | Developer | Stop | Fix | Wash.
After loading the Kodak racks I pre-rinse for 4 to 5 minutes then proceed on to processing the film.

To dry I hang the racks on a rope hung over the bath tub that has a knot about every 8 inches to prevent the film racks from sliding into each other.

It works for me.

[Uncle Jim]

Atlanta Terry is correct. I have been developing film since the late 1950s using processing racks for 2 x 3, 3 x 4, 4 x 5, and 5 x 7. I even have racks and tanks for 8 x 10, but usually do that in trays along with my ULF film. Get used to working in the dark. it isn't hard or expensive, and it how the 'old' boys did it.

uncle jim (an old boy)