Toyo 810M Resource/Fan Page

[tgtaylor]

I've shot the 120mm Nikkor on my 810M without getting the bed in the frame.

It will in portrait orientation with front fall.

Thomas

[Dustyman]

So today I packed up my 810MII to shoot some field portraits. I lifted the folded camera out of the case and, to my dismay, several pieces of metal fell to the ground. The front standard knob fell off and the standard separated from the bed. The plate just below the standard fell out as well, as did a very thin (almost paper thin) black flat washer.
I packed up everything and came back to the studio and proceeded to reassemble. I believe the very thin flat washer (aluminum?) goes just under the knob, between the knob and the standard (as opposed to between the standard and the plate below it).
Everything works, but I am noticing a very rough feel to the lateral shift. Metal against metal. Am I missing a piece? or did I mess up the re-assembly?
Perhaps it just requires some lube between the two plates that rub together? If so, what type of lube is recommended.
I rarely use shift, so I'm not really sure if the roughness is new or if it just supposed to feel rough.

If anyone had a schematic of how the front standard (from the large knob downward) assembles, along with parts diagram, that would be appreciated. Just need to know if I did this right or if I'm missing any pieces.

Thank you for your input.

[Ari]

Best thing is to call MAC Group and ask the Toyo department for a schematic; if any parts are missing, you can buy them from Toyo.
The shift is not geared, but it should be smooth nonetheless. I never saw lube in that area, but I may be mistaken about that.

[Dustyman]

Thank you, Ari. I have an email out to them and awaiting a reply. Actually I was hoping you might shed some light in this as I see you have disassembled that knob and plate area in the past.
Any recollection of a flat washer or two?
I moved it from just under the knob to under the standard (between the standard and the plate) and it seems much smoother now. I'm just not sure if there should be another washer under thew knob as well.

Also, is there a trick to removing the knob once the tiny screw takes grip? (the one that screws in the opposite direction than normal).

[Ari]

Dusty,
I've been without the Toyo for a long time now, my memory of the disassembly is shaky at best.
I don't remember a flat washer under the knob, but there probably was one under the standard, which jibes with your improvement in performance after moving the washer to under the standard.
And for the life of me, I don't remember the trick with the reverse-screwing knob; again, a call to Toyo is probably going to be more helpful than leaning on my muddled recollections.
I do recall playing around with that part of the disassembly for a while, then there was an "a-ha!" moment over something, so perhaps the answer will come to you after a bit of toying around; just don't force the knob, that's what I do remember.
I wish I could be of more help, good luck.

[Dustyman]

Mac Group sent me over an exploded view parts schematic and I attach it here in case anyone cause use it...

[Cor]

Mac Group sent me over an exploded view parts schematic and I attach it here in case anyone cause use it...

Thanks! I filed it, hope I never need it, but just in case. Quite amazing how many parts it takes to make a relative "simple"camera..

Best,

Cor

[Ari]

Thanks! I filed it, hope I never need it, but just in case. Quite amazing how many parts it takes to make a relative "simple"camera..

Best,

Cor

Glad this got posted here.
I always considered the Toyo 810M/MII to be an "overbuilt" camera; this PDF shows just that.
The ~16 pounds of weight is the necessary trade-off for what is probably the most stable 8x10 field camera ever built.

[Dustyman]

I'm looking for a history of the 810M series. How the camera was developed and, if possible, who the designers were. Really, any info would be appreciated. Sales stats, well-known photographers who use (or used) them, etc. I know Sally Mann used it for a time.

At the every least, I could use production dates of the various 810M iterations.

Anyone have this info on hand?

Thank you

[Ari]

I'd contact MAC Group again; they are a good resource for almost everything Toyo.
When I found out about the differences between the 810M and 810MII, I was put in touch, indirectly, with the designer at Sakai (Toyo) in Japan.
The head of parts/repair at MAC acted as a liaison while I figured out what I could do to get my M to act like an MII.
So they can put you in touch with the right people, and I suspect you'll need a Japanese/English translator.
Good luck!