Sinar Auto Shutter Shake

[Flauvius]

What are your experiences with shutter shake when using a Sinar auto shutter in macro or 1:1 situations?

Flauvius

[Bernice Loui]

Mostly Nil. Have used the Sinar shutter with everything from enlarging lenses to Luminars to microscope objectives. Vibration has not been an issue. Using a Sinar allows stacking as many bellows as required with proper support. Similar applies to long focal lenses aka telephoto.

The more significant issues is rigidity and stability between the camera and micro item. The solution that worked for me was to use the rail as a column support for the camera with lens & shutter with a Sinar front standard and flat lens board as a micro object table. This way, everything moves mostly together removing a significant camera to subject movement/shake problem.

What must be done, hold the cable release button down for the entire duration of the timed exposure, if this is not done there will be a slam when the shutter blades close.

As for vibration free shutters, special electronic microscope camera shutters are accurate and very, very vibration and shake free. This is a must due to the magnifications involved and any mechanical movement is a BIG problem.

4x5 is about as large a film size I'm willing to use for imaging small items due to the degree of magnification, light requirements and all related. There are speciality microscopes that do a far better job of imaging than any view camera set up for the really small stuff.



Bernice

What are your experiences with shutter shake when using a Sinar auto shutter in macro or 1:1 situations?

Flauvius

[Lachlan 717]

No issue. The majority of the noise and perceived vibration is in the recocking phase of the shutter's deployment (i.e. after the exposure is completed.

[Flauvius]

Thanks to everyone for your kind replies,

Flauvius

[Daniel Stone]

IF you're working within a confined space(aka inside, with controlled lighting sources), you might want to use your light sources as the "shutter".

Simply turn off the lights, pull the darkslide, wait a few seconds for the camera to settle any potential vibrations from removing the slide, and then turn on your lights(or pop the flash) for the required time/pops to arrive at your final exposure.

Just a thought. If you're outside, then this negates this issue/potential solution entirely

-Dan