green filters

[phil sweeney]

Greetings all! I have never used a green filter, but have thought I should get one, and try it for lightening foliage etc. Also a while back in view camera there was a small article suggesting a green filter for scenes out west that have red rock etc. I typically only use a #8 and #12 filter and do not care for the heavier yellow and reds. I have also thought about getting a #6 made since occasionaly I find the #8 too dramatic and do not see any stock #6s available.

I'd like to hear from users recommendations for green filter use. I am thinking a #11 would be a good pick and have thought the #58 too dramatic.

[steve simmons]

There is also a #13 which splits the difference between the 11 and the 58

steve simmons

[Ralph Barker]

I like the yellow-green #11 for scenics with people, and the #13 for good separation of green tones. The #58 is too radical for my tastes, too.

[Gem Singer]

Phil,

Check with K.E.H. (www.keh.com), in Atlanta,Ga. They have a large selection of used filters, especially the glass screw-in type, in a variety of sizes. I recently purchased a previously owned 77mm. ,#13 green filter from them at a very reasonable price.

Modern films are more sensitive to the blue end of the spectrum, and they seem to need stronger filtration. The #6 (light) yellow and #11(light) green show very little effect with my HP-5+ film. The #15 (stronger) yellow and #13 (stronger) green seem to be a better match for the HP-5+ film's spectral response.

[steve simmons]

Modern films are more sensitive to the blue end of the spectrum, and they seem to need stronger filtration>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Are you sure about this. The old Ortho films were much more sensitive to blue and the newer panchromatic fims have a much more balanced response. What you are describing may be the result of haze/smog in the air so there is really less blue than there used to be - hence the need for stronger fiters.

steve simmons

[Gem Singer]

Hi Steve,

Check the literature for Kodak T-Max, Ilford Delta, and Fuji Acros. They all hint at at increased blue sensitivity in these films. I have also found from my own work with HP-5Plus that I now need stronger filtration than I used to need with the old HP-5. Maybe that's what the "Plus" stands for.

It may be due to air pollution, an increase in haze/fog in the atmosphere, or perhaps the increased use of silver iodide as the light sensitive compound used in the emulsion of these types of films. This would be a good research project for one of your View Camera writers.

[CP Goerz]

I have found that green filters just muddied the shades of grey the leaves reproduce in on the final print, reducing the different shades within the leaf colour. In the end I had more success with a yellow or orange filter and increasing the exposure and reducing development a touch. Direction of the light may be the most important factor of all though.

CP Goerz

[Pete Watkins]

About ten years ago I used a green filter for some outdoor portraits and it was excellent in bringing out good skin tones in mono.
Pete.

[Tom Perkins]

Hi Phil,
I went through the same thought process about 15 months ago and tried a yellow green filter for some time, I think it is the 11. This is in Western Nevada, Eastern California. I did not like the effect too much and have gone back to the light yellow. There is a temptation out here to use contrast filters to darken the sky and then wind up with too much contrast or harshness. I never got anything but muddy greys with the light green. There was one occasion several years ago when I used the 58 in an overcast scene with lots of green foliage and plus development to very good effect. In an area like yours it might be useful to have the light green and try it out on foliage in overcast or shadow situations. Hope this helps.