Choosing a camera to shoot film now, digital later

[Kirk Gittings]

Attachment 121589

Here is another with more of the top.

OK! Hugely different example. NOW. EXPLAIN WHY A T/S CAN"T DO THAT?

[VictoriaPerelet]

You can get modern Sinar F1/2 or Arca Discovery for $500 . Neither is good for digital as it is, but you'll get in to system that you can partially upgrade later. Spend your time in google, you'll find answers.

With either camera you can purchase hassy or mamiya back plate to mount mfdb.

Short story, to do digital and movements you'll need very fine geared focus and geared tilt. Pushing lensboard by hand to to tilt is not going to work, you'll learn this very quickly.

Good analogue lenses are very acceptable for what's called fat pixel mfdb's. But good analogue lenses do cost more than $500 also.

You'll need back with live focusing on computer screen. GG focusing will not cut it. Also, classic Arca cameras have messed up fresnel/gg configuration. It was ok for film, but does not work for digital. You may go to N focusing backs, but price of getting them is out of your range (and N backs are joke anyway, they just reduce error, not eliminate it)

After all you'll need #*$500, pick your multiplier #

[threebythree]

Thanks to everyone - this has been extremely helpful. In a nutshell, coupling a new digi back and lens with an older, cheaper body is a waste of time because the older / cheaper body will not allow the fine geared movements necessary to extract the best image quality from the sensor and lens...

OK. Does that mean the only recommendations, that are viable, are for a new complete digital solution such as a P3, ArTec, WDS, Ultima 23 ? How about a Phase One system with the Schneider Tilt Shift lenses?

[analoguey]

If you can afford a MFDB system, the 500$ limit in the original question's moot - and probably skewed answers.

You could rent a view camera [if available] - or buy to test, and return minus rental. Best idea would be shoot your current system side by side with a view camera system and see if it works for you.
You can make the decisions on MFDB etc once you've figured whether the technical camera works well for you.

[Dirk Rösler]

OK! Hugely different example. NOW. EXPLAIN WHY A T/S CAN"T DO THAT?

No back movements? Just a guess...

[SergeiR]

Well those weren't really available until late 2005 and the actual sold listings on eBay range from $1500 to $3500 with various lenses and accessories. Old 2003-4 Kodak DCS645 backs sold for $2500 or so.

Which is about the same pricing as a D800. Which would you rather have? I haven't done a comparison either but I'd bet on the D800, both cameras used similarly.

Keywords here - "i did compare them". D800 still looses to ZD back. So did D700. Both are fine for high iso, shooting from the hip & etc. As soon as you put them in actual controlled environment with challenging light ZD wins. Its not matter of preference, its shadow area transitions that are better, gradients are smoother. That said even D800 certainly is fine camera and does fine for what it is designed to do. However one can not fool laws of optics. They are laws for the reason. Tools should be used for what they are designed. You don't use elephant to lift cars (while you can). Swedish universal knife is decent tool, but you won't like your car mechanic to use it to fix your car, right?

Original point of argument was against "old backs". By standard of digital world 9-10 years is pretty darn old. Kodak tiny backs as well as Leaf ones - if someone can sell them for 2.5k now - good luck to those guys. They are typically go on 400-700$ range on fleabay, if one is patient.

Anyhow.. For the purpose of what OP is looking for - switching to LF won't do squat of good, IMHO.

[Kirk Gittings]

No back movements? Just a guess...

Yeah boy! That exquisite shot is just not doable without a camera with full movements.

[sanking]

Live focusing on computer (laptop or tablet) is key for me with adjustment of movents. Even push movements (compared to gear) are quite doable if you have a large enough viewing image. I am using a Samsung tablet with fairly high definition and working with it is hugely easier than trying to evaluate the image on a small LCD, or ground glass.

Sandy

[DrTang]

get a cambo or horseman or whatever fits your budget now

and then rent the whole set up - camera, lens and all, when you need it down the road.. charging off the rental to the client

unless you intend to shoot a lot - buying would make no sense

[David E. Rose]

Yeah boy! That exquisite shot is just not doable without a camera with full movements.

I'm not getting this either. The sample shot is a three point perspective that has not been corrected to eliminate keystoning, although camera movements may have been used to reduce the keystoning.This would be done with a downward shift and possibly some lateral shift as well, the same movements on a T/S lens or a view camera. If depth of field was a problem, some tilt could be added to control that (along with stopping down), again the same on both camera types. The view camera would likely have a greater range of movement, but this image does not look like it required extreme movements.