I ususally just count 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi ... unless I've had dental work that day and my mouth has been shot up with a bunch of novocaine ... then it becomes as lot more difficult to count! Normally, I just use my analog watch. Anything under 5 seconds I use B, anything over, I resort to using T.
+1 on the analog wristwatch.Originally Posted by Heroique
Standard military cadence.
120 is standard military cadence.A march tempo at 120 bps would kick up a lot of dust!!!
Let's just say I'd hate to follow a drum major who ordered 120 bps, not 120 bpm!
Unless I were a hummingbird.
I use B most of the time as my favorite lens does not have T.My exposures usually range from 1 min. to 90min. ( i usually use F 64) My timer on my smart fone works good,,before smart phones i used a stop watch.
For anything more then 2 seconds just use my cheap analog wrist watch, shutter release cable, with lens on B bulb. However really try to avoid having to use bulb for less than 6 seconds and instead will change the aperture to fit. Sometimes will used the 1 second shutter speed multiple times for 2 or 3 second exposures. Usually that comes out clean however sometimes also can result in misregistrations if camera moves in even the tiniest from cranking the lens. Thus try to set such shots up stably then am extra gentle.
My outdoor landscape work using Provia 100F and stopping down to get reasonable depth of field is often in shady places with light between EV6 and EV9 so end up using bulb quite a bit. Places like redwood forests during diffuse overcast or foggy conditions. This image at Fern Canyon in Redwood National Park is typical at about 16 seconds.
http://www.davidsenesac.com/Gallery_B/12-F-9.jpg
Or in the fall down under dim forest canopies in cloudy diffuse light.
http://www.davidsenesac.com/Gallery_B/13-K-6.jpg
Am much better at it the last few years than earliest years with a view camera. Getting a long exposure correct is a lot more than just taking a few lightmeter readings and certainly one of the most difficult aspects of using a view camera. For some time now I've also been using a digital camera at times to calculate what EV levels might come out like because my G10 seemed to match results with my lightmeter rather nicely and am doing the same now with an A6000.
A march tempo at 120 bps would kick up a lot of dust!!!
...oops! I must have not had enough coffee before posting... Of course I meant 120 bpm... beats per minute, not bps... beats per second...Let's just say I'd hate to follow a drum major who ordered 120 bps, not 120 bpm!
Unless I were a hummingbird.
At any rate, counting to a cadence or march tempo is surprisingly accurate for long exposures in the few seconds to few minutes range. I wear out though after four or five minutes and revert to a watch or the like. I like a diver's-style watch with a rotating bezel so I can mark my exposure time and not have to remember a specific end time.
I remember some times in slot canyons when I had 20+ minute exposures. I'd set the rotating bezel on my watch to the right time and then go looking for the next photo or two. I'd mark them with stones or the like and then return to the camera when the exposure time was up. I had enough time between exposures that I could have worked with two cameras, leap-frogging one while the other was exposing...
Best,
Doremus
I have always found the "locking" systems on normal releases to be very unreliable. The Prontar professional timer is often a loose item lurking in the bottom of job lots - exactly as sinar/copal shutters and their release cables do!There's a Prontor long-exposure timer / cable release that can give you settings in the range 2 to 32 seconds. Unfortunately, it tends to be hard to find, and expensive when you do come across one.
Me too
"WOW! Now thats a big camera. By the way, how many megapixels is that thing?"
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