Fix pin on back of Kodak 2D 8x10

[rotomotor]

Hi,

I'm bringing a Kodak 2D 8x10 back to user condition. One of the pins on one corner of the back is missing and the wood is split. I need to both fix the wood and install a pin. One idea was to first use wood glue or a wood-friendly epoxy if there is such a thing, then drill a pilot hole, and install a screw, then use a dremel tool to take off the rest of the screw and round it off.

1) What is the best wood repair product for this type of split?
2) What is the best way to install a pin?
3) Are there pins available or will I have to fabricate one?

I'm not what you would call a craftsman/woodworker but I can do simple chores.

Any help is appreciated!
Scott

Attachment 112248

Attachment 112249

[Jon Shiu]

You can fill it with epoxy like JB Weld. Then drill a small hole and tap (with a hammer) in a small brass brad with the head cut off and rounded with a file. The pins I use are called escutcheon pins and a pack at the hardware store is a couple bucks. These pins are a little small in diameter, so position them to keep the back tight against the body, or use a larger brass rod.

A small brass screw like you say would also work fine if you can find one small enough with a unthreaded shaft near the top.

Jon

[rotomotor]

Thanks, Jon. That helps a lot. And, please take that Super Graphic ad down because it's becoming too tempting!

[Jim C.]

Are you talking about the pins in the corner edges that hold the back to the rear of the camera ?
Those are brass rod 2mm or 3/32nd inch dia.

For some reason I can't see your attachments.

[rotomotor]

Are you talking about the pins in the corner edges that hold the back to the rear of the camera ?
Those are brass rod 2mm or 3/32nd inch dia.

For some reason I can't see your attachments.

Yes, that's what I was talking about. I just bought the brass rod in 3/32 and the JB weld. How far should the pins go into the wood?

[Jon Shiu]

Yes, that's what I was talking about. I just bought the brass rod in 3/32 and the JB weld. How far should the pins go into the wood?

1/4 or 3/8", but it's not critical.

Jon

[John Koehrer]

I typically use a carpenters glue for splits. Fill the remaining hole with a piece of wood(toothpick), drill & install the rod.

I use JB Weld for quite a few things but not as a glue, more of a filler. It's pretty useful when you want to work it into a specific shape using simple hand tools.

[Michael Cienfuegos]

I used a piece of 3/32" brazing rod for the pins worked well.

m

[Jon Shiu]

Yes, if the wood is spit, spread it open with a toothpick and get some white glue or wood glue in there, then clamp it and let it dry a while. Then fill the hole with epoxy etc.

Jon

[rotomotor]

Thanks everyone for your help, and fast help it was. I used a combination of JB Weld and the toothpick method. First, I got as much JB Weld as I could into the hole and where the wood is split, then I jammed a piece of toothpick covered with epoxy into the hole. Finally, I put as much epoxy into the hole with the toothpick, leveled it off and clamped it for a few hours. After it was cured and sanded flat, I drilled the pilot hole one size smaller than 3/32" and tapped in the 14mm long, 3/32" brass rod. It fits and is going to work great. A replacement ground glass is on the way, and sometime this week I'll have all the original 2D working again. I found this camera recently with the back in unusable condition so I've been using a B&J back since then. Grey on dark wood doesn't look so good. I'm excited to use the original back.

Thanks again!
Scott