Which way do you prefer to develop your 4x5 sheet films

[dncswclds]

I am very new at it. LF anyways and I found the taco method suits my situation until I can get a UN54 or a Yankee Agitank. Just don't have the space for all the trays needed. I also don't know I like the idea of transferring the film from tray to tray as I do not have the metal holders etc.

[kintatsu]

... I also don't know I like the idea of transferring the film from tray to tray as I do not have the metal holders etc.

I don't use tongs. I use my fingers. You can get some good latex or neoprene gloves that are tight fitting and allow you to feel the film.

I use Ziploc trays about 6x12 inches, about 4 inches deep, for my solutions, and have had zero problems from that method. The trays have a nice indent around the edges that allow you to get below the film with your finger quite easily, even with gloves. They also stack quite nicely and take up little space.

I use 1/2 liter developer (HC-110 Dil h (8 ml concentrate to 492 ml water)) and 1 liter fixer. After 4-5 sheets the developer gets replaced, the fixer's good for quite some time, though.

[dncswclds]

Also with tray processing what do people use to time the developing etc.? No led timers etc allowed in "complete darkness". Gralab timer in a far away corner I guess.

[Tim Meisburger]

I use the timer on my phone.

[Pete Watkins]

I'll go along with Tim. The Patterson Orbital is Gods gift. It uses a very small amount of chemicals and with the motor base it's a dream. Developer D-76 1-1 or in my case home brewed D-76H 1-1.
Pete

[jose angel]

I also currently using my cellular phone to timing the process. The app has three illumination options, which works great.
BTW, you can use any dimmed light timer; just place it into a box (e.g. a cardboard box) in the way of barn doors or honey combs work... to avoid side light spreading.

Abhishek, tray processing is somewhat uncomfortable. I personally use a Jobo rotary system, but I`m in the process of switching to a non-motorized system, in order to control edge effects (acutance) on the film grain.
So if I finally don`t build my own developing tank or box or whatever, I`ll buy a MOD 54 device.

I`d also start with one shot chemicals; the Paterson tank will use way more developer volume than rotary systems, but I plan to use highly diluted solutions. In fact, I`m interested in semi-stand developing, so even to discard one liter of high diluted solution every time, it is not of an issue.

[Regular Rod]

If you are in England, I recommend Patterson Orbital trays. You only need a moments darkness to load them, and if that is difficult they can be loaded inside a cheap changing bag. You can set them on a table in front of the tv to spin by hand, or buy a motor base and set a timer to remind you when to pour out one chemical and load the other. They use less chemicals than any other system.

All my sheet films I develop in modified Paterson Orbital Processors but the OP was concerned about not spending a lot of money. He has access to a dark room and so trays would be the most cost-effective and safe way for him to start out. The Orbitals cost a fortune these days, although if modified and used properly they are fantastically good.

http://freepdfhosting.com/f640343f29.pdf explains the best way for conventional black and white films. Basically forget orbital agitation and use it as a tray cum tank that works in the light...

RR

[Doremus Scudder]

Tray processing requires a couple of things: complete darkness for the entire processing time (well, at least until halfway through the fixer step), space for five or six trays and, most importantly, practice and dexterity.

For those of us that tray-process 6-8 sheets of film at a time, there was a learning curve involved, during which we learned how to shuffle safely and efficiently and how to generally handle the film in all the different solutions to avoid scratches. Search here and elsewhere for many different approaches to shuffling.

Other than taking a bit of time to learn, I believe that tray processing is the most flexible, most even and most economical method available. I'd only recommend a daylight tank if you absolutely don't have enough space or access to total darkness.

FWIW, I develop up to 8 sheets (usually 6 though) of 4x5 film at a time in deep Paterson 5x7 trays with 500ml of solution in them. I use a pyro developer one-shot and wear nitrile gloves for the entire processing session. I have done this for going on 30 years and rarely damage a negative; certainly no more than I would loading/unloading reels, film hangers, putting film in tubes, etc., etc.

My workflow: pre-soak 3 min; develop, stop, fix 1, fix 2, water holding tray. I wash in a homemade film washer or using a Gravity Works film washer. It is fairly easy to fabricate a slot-type film washer yourself and it is a lot easier than washing in trays. After washing, the film gets a final 30-sec.+ rinse in distilled water with PhotoFlo and is hung by the corners to dry.

Good luck,

Doremus

[munz6869]

I use a regular Jobo 2551 tank with 2x 2509 reels on an old Jobo CPE2 - 12 sheets at a time with 640ml chemistry, and, unless I do something dopey (not unknown), I get even negatives always.

Marc!

[koh303]

In the past 3 months there have been at least 3 such threads, all having pretty much the same discussion, perhaps its time for a sticky "4X5 processing" options/techniques...?