I want to. I have a Saltzman head, but the tripods are kinda rare and often in bad shape.
Originally Posted by Will Whitaker
I want to. I have a Saltzman head, but the tripods are kinda rare and often in bad shape.
All right, I read through all 9 pages of that other thread from 2009. I have several heavy-duty Al tripods, and an old wooden surveyor's tripod that looks really cool but weighs twice as much as the Manfrotto I normally use. I'm considering putting a Linhof head on it and giving it a whirl.
For those concerned about 'resonance'; I assume you mean the tendency of the tripod to 'ring' when struck, indicating that it is resonating at a given, normally quite high for Al, frequency, and this may be a problem during exposure with, say, my #3 Copal. Of course said Copal is mounted on a wooden camera, in my case, so that vibration is damped before it ever gets through the head and into the tripod legs. However, assuming said tripod legs are resonating from some other source, couldn't the vibration be damped with a judicious application of a tube-sock style sandbag (which weighs less, combined with the Manfrotto, than the wooden tripod)? I've seen the suggestion of hanging it from the center column; this will certainly give better stability in windy conditions. But for resonance, I would think it should be wrapped around the top of the 3 legs. These, being in contact with a damping material (the sandbag), will not be able to resonate. Sort of like a bell stops ringing when you touch it with your finger.
I have used an 800mm lens quite a lot with a 35mm camera; I got better results with a 3-way tripod head if I left one axis loose, and didn't fix the rotating tripod collar on the lens. I also left the pan function of the head loose. I could then follow my subject with one hand on the camera body (finger on the shutter button), and one hand on the focus knob; I was free to do 360s, all angles, and in normal, daylight conditions, I did not have a problem with vibrations or fuzzy pictures (1/30 and faster). When I tried locking everything down, for a fixed subject, things sometimes got worse. I interpret this to mean that my free-follow shots were damped by me having 2 hands on the gear.
Obviously this is not possible with a view camera for long exposures (I do sometimes try to stabilize the camera in windy conditions by holding the top of the tripod, or putting a finger on the rear standard and pulling down a little, or both if the shutter has a self-timer), but I'm wondering if other damping methods might be more effective than a heavy, expensive wooden tripod. Specifically, judicious use of a small sandbag, and for long lenses someone posted the suggestion of using a bungee cord tying the front of the camera to the rear, passing through the tripod legs. I'm looking for a lightweight bungee with a slip-knot type adjustment (like a tent cord), that will allow me to control the tension.
I don't know if I can even evaluate the difference this might make, as I don't have a drum scanner and I don't print to large dimensions. The only reason I was considering trying a wooden tripod is because it's sitting beside me, in pieces, and I've just refinished it in a beautiful polished shellac.
Hanging anything from the center column is a bad idea - especially outside - a sandbag turns the center column into a pendulum. I do lots of long exposures, and find that a sandbag draped over each leg where it hits the ground is best. It keeps the tripod fully in contact with the ground, and the weight on each leg reduces vibrations. It also keeps those of us who are clumsy from kicking the tripod leg and having to recompose! It's not a good solution for shooting too far from the car by yourself, though... 3 15-20lb sandbags add up quickly. They do make sandbags you can fill yourself, so you could fill them when it's time to shoot, and empty before you pack up.
Instead of hanging a sandbag from the bottom of the center column, try draping a bag over the top plate of the tripod... It puts more weight on the legs, and doesn't cause the pendulum effect. Or the heavier tripod would work, too!
To those who think that resonance is all about tripods and tripod materials, and it`s not about weight:
What are you isolating? The tripod from the camera? The camera from the tripod? The camera from the environment?
If you just place a heavier tripod (quality tripod, I mean) over the ground, we expect it to be as steady as possible. Do you think the "resonance" of a lighter tripod (say CF) will isolate it from the wind? I tend to think that a heavier tripod will be better for that... have you read the "Three Little Piggies" tale? By the way, how much a good wooden tripod weight, in comparison to a an aluminum or CF one?
If you knock the camera, will a lighter tripod avoid transmitting the vibrations? I don`t think so. But it`s true that some materials will transmit "knocking camera" vibes better than others, but... the thing to isolate is the camera, not the tripod.
Well, some tripod manufacturers have to give some "easy to diger" reasons to sell their expensive carbon, basalt or wood tripods... the aluminum tripod market already has too much competition, you know.
Funny that wooden tripods are better for wood tripod manufacturers, as CF tripods are better for CF manufacturers, etc. What about cheap plastic damping properties? Looks like there are also ball heads with better transmission properties that others... (tests are obviously published by the manufacturer, too).
To avoid the camera transmitting vibrations to the tripod is another topic (maybe more theoretical than practical, I think). If camera vibes are high enough to be transmitted to the tripod (!), and they actually need special materials to be dampened (!), it`s another topic, and here vibration transmission properties really count. And here maybe you also need a stronger (thus heavier) model.
I wonder about the type of transmission from a large format wooden camera with a leaf shutter, that may be different to the one on a high pixel count DSLR, or in a RZ, or in a telescope...are all the same, vibrations wise? I think not.
What have more transmission, wood of aluminum? I`d say that wood, looking at musicians. But it`s not as easy, there are long and short wave frequencies, as mentioned, that`s another topic. What you prefer, a high frequency, long duration or a low frequency, short duration vibration?
When I look for a tripod I want it to be as steady and strong as possible, and to avoid vibes produced by wind, or by an accidental touch, and with a reasonable capability of producing sharp images. Portability is a factor, too. That`s all. But it`s nice to have all this variety, and all this literature about tripods, thought.
I can recommend either a Ries or a Gitzo CF. I used aluminum bogens through the 80s and 90s - but upgraded to the well made Gitzo aluminum and later to a Gitzo CF. A couple weeks ago I came across a new "old stock" Ries J100-2. A local camera shop considered it a white elephant and sold it to me for $450. One of the lower leg threaded knobs was bent (still functioned) but I bought a new clamp assembly with from Ries for $55. Which is a good reason for using a Ries - you can get parts for it quite easily. I had been shopping for a J-100 because I needed a tripod with a 35" folded length. (a good fit for my height and still fit in my truck) The J100-2 has a 40" folded length with double leg clamps and a stouter lower leg assembly- (a stiffer tripod). SO I carefully removed 5" off of the bottoms of the upper and lower leg assemblies, sanded and re-finished the reworked legs and re assembled the unit. I am very happy with the Ries. It fits me well - will last a long time and can be worked on (if necessary) with simple tools. I built a custom rack for the Ries in my truck - I use my truck to do a lot of 4 wheeling and need something to hold it in place when out driving rough and unimproved mountain roads. I attached a few pics of the finished work. Almost all of my tripods have been previously owned. You just have to be a patient, smart shopper to get the tripod that works for you. (keep in mind that most casual photographers buy a nice new tripod for their nice new cameras, but rarely use them - so when they go up for sale - most are pretty clean. I use the Gitzo CF when I go out on extended hikes, But the Ries is my new primary tripod.
Here are a couple images the of the reworked lower and upper leg assemblies.
Ries J100 or A100 if you want something heavier. They just can't be beat, I have one of each! The J100 is probably sufficient.
Yep, Majestic tripods are heavy. They're designed to really work, not to be wall flowers.
Back seat solution... get a van like I have.
I use my two Majestics for everything from 8x10 down to 35mm.
They hold the camera in place, period. No cajoling or hand wringing.
I also use the pair to support my car during an oil change.
They don't realize they're supporting anything.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
I second that,
I have a pile of tripods, but my favorite for everything is an older grey Majestic with the really good Majestic gear head. It's actually a lighter weight model than my really heavy duty twin leg black Majestic. I trust them both, unlike some of the newer fancier tripods.
The 6x7 Majestic head plate is great for all LF cameras, I also put a HD Horseman QR on it for MF. It's a good platform. pun intended
Yep, Majestic tripods are heavy. They're designed to really work, not to be wall flowers.
Back seat solution... get a van like I have.
I use my two Majestics for everything from 8x10 down to 35mm.
They hold the camera in place, period. No cajoling or hand wringing.
I also use the pair to support my car during an oil change.
They don't realize they're supporting anything.
- Leigh
I'm quite sure this is a ridiculous notion for the tripod, but this lovely beast (survey type) would easily support 11x14 and larger. For anything else (5x7 and smaller) I would not hesitate to use my 2.6lbs CF Feisol 3371 - for taller frame person. Rubber footsies take care of the resonance business. Anyway, I already carry enough stuff into the field to worry about the weight of the tripod. If I was to use a tripod (only) near a vehicle I'd go for quality wooden one such as Ries, Berlebach, Wolf or older quality mot. pic. tripods. Unfortunately, even a solid middle column is never sturdy enough for me. My 2 centavos.
Les
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