Alt-Process Prints from Digital Negatives or Positives

[chassis]

Erik, compelling and powerful image.

[Erik Larsen]

Thanks Chassis,
Andrew, I haven't experimented yet with shadow negs yet. I just made a normal pt/pd print and a used a normal carbon neg but I used a lower dichro amount so I would only get the shadows involved in the final print. Much to learn with the possibilities still.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Higher dilution is a good idea. I'll have to try it next time. Thanks.

[bob carnie]

Thanks Chassis,
Andrew, I haven't experimented yet with shadow negs yet. I just made a normal pt/pd print and a used a normal carbon neg but I used a lower dichro amount so I would only get the shadows involved in the final print. Much to learn with the possibilities still.

Hi Erik

Here is how I make a shadow negative


With the image open in PS I make a Layer.... I then double click on the right side of the layer... this will open the Blend If dialoque box.... I work with the top sliders and for shadow I will drag the right slider over to the left... with a bit of practice you will get the point you need.... I then split the slider Option to feather the effect.... I will then unclick the background layer and here is when you see the areas you selected..... then flatten the file... you will be asked to discard the layer... say yes and on your screen you will see a positive image of the shadow areas only.... you then invert the layer, flip horizontal and save as shadow neg.

In my workflow I always use registration marks that you can google and get on your desktop,,,, basically with an image I will get it to a point where I want to work with... size it ... then put a canvas around it... Then using Place feature you can PLACE register marks into the canvas... once flattened this is the master you work from for all subsequent layers....

I will be doing a full pdf on this in the future with screen captures showing how to make all the different types of negatives.

[bob carnie]

I am really impressed with the idea of Carbon over Pt Pd or cyanotype... It is a great way for getting the best of both worlds... I came at this to use pt pd for the main image and then use dark gum shadow hits to increase
contrast. Basically using two processes to compliment each other.

I first saw the practical applications of this when I visited Sam Wang at Clemson.. He was doing lovely cyanotype and gum, and pt pd blends using channels in photoshop... I think
I impressed him by the way I could visualize how he made the film... At least he said he was impressed.


I may have to go back to all my Sandy Kings notes , and try this some day Carbon over pd . I would use colour carbon and not go as thick relief though as what Sandy can do.

[Erik Larsen]

Hi Erik

Here is how I make a shadow negative


With the image open in PS I make a Layer.... I then double click on the right side of the layer... this will open the Blend If dialoque box.... I work with the top sliders and for shadow I will drag the right slider over to the left... with a bit of practice you will get the point you need.... I then split the slider Option to feather the effect.... I will then unclick the background layer and here is when you see the areas you selected..... then flatten the file... you will be asked to discard the layer... say yes and on your screen you will see a positive image of the shadow areas only.... you then invert the layer, flip horizontal and save as shadow neg.

In my workflow I always use registration marks that you can google and get on your desktop,,,, basically with an image I will get it to a point where I want to work with... size it ... then put a canvas around it... Then using Place feature you can PLACE register marks into the canvas... once flattened this is the master you work from for all subsequent layers....

I will be doing a full pdf on this in the future with screen captures showing how to make all the different types of negatives.

Thanks Bob for explanation. I have used the method you use for gum shadow negs but I haven't tried it for carbon yet as the carbon over pt/pd process is new for me still and I wanted to see f I could get it to work at all...

I just use the registration marks built in to photoshops print dialog box to align negs. The carbon over is really nice for the shadows of a pt/pd print IMO. For my monochrome work I don't see a reason to use carbon overs for more than just a boost in the low end, it may be really interesting for your color work. I would imagine it would be a much cleaner less painterly looking print than a gum over?

[sanking]

Bob,

Tell me about the registration marks you get by doing a google?

Erik,

How do you use the registration marks built in to the Photoshop print dialog box if printing QTR negatives? Are you not using a MAC? I only print QTR profiles with Print Tool since it is the only way to print with No Color Management with a MAC?

BTW, I am set up with a Stoesser pin registration system now and have about got the mysteries of three-color carbon solved again, after all these years. My tissue is about there, am getting nice linearity with my QTR profile, just need to create an ICC profile and should be in business. And got some very interesting color work to try out from a recent visit to Oaxaca, Mexico.

Sandy

Thanks Bob for explanation. I have used the method you use for gum shadow negs but I haven't tried it for carbon yet as the carbon over pt/pd process is new for me still and I wanted to see f I could get it to work at all...

I just use the registration marks built in to photoshops print dialog box to align negs. The carbon over is really nice for the shadows of a pt/pd print IMO. For my monochrome work I don't see a reason to use carbon overs for more than just a boost in the low end, it may be really interesting for your color work. I would imagine it would be a much cleaner less painterly looking print than a gum over?

[Erik Larsen]

Sandy, I don't have any qtr profiles yet for platinum or gum only for carbon so use Photoshop still to print those. I'm still in my infancy with qtr but I have a palladium curve 95% there. The step tablet looks good but it always prints too light from what my monitor shows. I think I need to adjust my monitors brightness to match the print rather than adjust the print to my monitor?

[bob carnie]

Sandy - just google registration marks and a large grouping will come up which you can download to your desktop ... once on your desktop you can retrive them by activating the move tool - then go into file and then down to PLACE and it will lead you to your desktop and you click on the icon for registration... it will show up in the middle of your image and you can move it to a position in your white canvas surrounding your image....
I do this three times so I have three points of registration..l then flatten the layers and you are good to separate from this main master positive canvas.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Yes I also use registration marks compliments of Google. A very simple system of plexi and a couple of longish thumbtacks does the registration trick.