BPF200 experience?

[Chris Gittins]

I happened into a box of BPF200 awhile back. I exposed half a dozen test sheets under a step tablet and have been developing them along my regular negs, primarily HP5 - my thought being that I'd get speed and contrast index relative to HP5 and would be good to go in short order. Well, the BPF200 curves are, to say the least, different. I got one relatively normal looking one with D76 @ 1+2, but the ones with D76 @ 1+3 and DDX @ 1+9 are very kinked. I've heard mention that BPF200 is really meant to work with Pyro. Is that the case? Does anyone out there use with BPF200 with a non-staining developer? If so, what works for you?

Thanks, Chris

[Bill_1856]

I had one set (exposed at ISO=100) developed in XTOL which looked very good.

[Sidney Cammeresi]

FWIW, I tried Bergger in HC-110, and I think that to say it sucked would be giving that combination a lot more than it deserves. I found the results of using PMK Pyro much better.

[Jay DeFehr]

The Bergger/ J&C/Forte/Edu. film is not very different from any other traditional grain film in its speed class. It works great with PC-TEA, and all of the other developers I've tried with it. The only commercially made developer I've used with it is TmaxRS, which also worked well. It works well with staining developers, but unless you're printing on graded paper, or UV sensitive paper, I don't see any real advantage over a non staining developer like PC-TEA. I like the results I get with PC-TEA 1:50 8 min. @ 70F, or TmxRS @ 1:9 for the same time. PC-TEA is less grainy than TmxRS in my experience.

[Aaron_3437]

Hi Jay, excuse my ignorance, but what developer is PC-TEA? I did a search and came up with nothing. Thanks!

[Jay DeFehr]

It is just one of Pat Gainer's many strokes of genius. It is a highly concentrated, single solution developer consisting of vitamin C (ascorbic acid), phenidone and triethanolamine (TEA). It is diluted 1:50 with water to make a working solution, and the concentrate will last forever on the shelf. If you're interested, email me and I'll give you the formula and mixing instructions. It's great stuff.

[jose angel]

I tested time ago this film with Rodinal exposed at 100ASA. Then, I use it for several shots; I was very satisfied with the results, the density curve was the most perfect in my opinion. I like it more than other films I tested at this time (HP5 included). The only problem I found is the enormous grain (and avaliability...). I have switched to Kodak, easier to find in my city.

I checked Pyro comparing the results with XTOL (TX 8x10" tray development). Results are more pleasant with PMK (the XTOL was very good also), but it is not worth to me the slightly better highlight detail at the expense of storing+mixing+using+droping this kind of chemicals very often.

[Ken Lee]

I don't have a sensitometer, but I tried it along with some other 4x5 films, in PyroCat HD, and found it to be much like other films. I don't often change developing times to control contrast, so I can't comment on that, but I found it virtually indistinguishable from the others. Following advice from Sandy King, I shot it at a speed of 100. (I might add that I normally use TMAX 400 in PyroCat HD, because one gets an effective speed of 320, and I appreciate the extra speed).



I have placed a sample test shot here. It seems to have nice rich tones.



For tray development, I found that Bergger scratches rather easily - but now I use a Jobo drum, so that's never an issue any more, thank heavens.

[L.V. Smith]

I shoot it at ASA 200, and develop in D76H that I mix myself. I use a large Jobo tank that holds 6 4x5 sheets. I pre-soak for about 2 minutes. I use a time of 12 minutes to develop. I have a condenser enlarger. I agitate 5 to 6 inversions in about 1400 ml of solution every minute. I use a water bath stop, and fix with TF-4 for 5 minutes. I use Ilford's washing procedure, and sometimes a little more. Soak in a diluted Photoflo solution, (not Kodak's formula) for about 30 seconds, hang to dry after light wiping with rubber squeege each side. I get excellent negatives. When dry I test for Max. Black. Print. If I exposed with camera and lens properly, (sometimes I don't), I get excellent prints.

[Tracy Storer]

I rate it at ISO 80 and develop in HC-110. I routinely use Dil. B, but have started using Dil.A for plus development to shorten the times....the jurys' still out on that, but it SEEMS to work fine. When processing large negs I use a lot of solution in the trays to A-help prevent scratching, and B-make sure I have enough developer to handle multiple large negs soupled together. These large volumes of developer dictate that for economic reasons I just have to save and replenish....ergo-HC-110.