Rodinal: Finally putting all the rhinos if what's "real" and what's "clone" etc

[emh]

Ken- If you mean any of the other versions of Rodinal, I never saw a difference. Granted, it was never my regular developer, but I have used it over the last 3 decades. In fact, I didn't realize I had used differing versions until I was doing a darkroom purge, last week. There were nearly empty bottles of Rodinal, Adonal, and RO9 on the back of a shelf. I know I never changed times/temperatures/procedures with any of them, and my films all came out as expected. Bear in mind, I didn't do any extensive, scientific testing but, I would have noticed any tonal variations in the prints.
I think this whole Rodinal/clone thing is like arguing whether you ate a hotdog, frankfurter, or wiener...

[Ken Lee]

Never mind: I found a few myself. They are not comparisons of Rodinal with substitutes, but with other developers: any other developers.

Here's one: A comparison of Rodinal, HC110, and D23 film developers. I find it particularly interesting because I currently use D-23.

Here's another: http://static.photo.net/attachments/...-157751784.jpg

Another: http://www.digitaltruth.com/products...lmtest_001.php

Another: http://www.rollaweek.com/2010/10/kod...-agfa-rodinal/

Are they perfect tests ? Are they scientifically rigorous ? No, but I find them helpful.

[peter k.]

Thanks Ken, that really helped.. use HC110 H, now ... and like the tonal change that the first and last showed, will get some Rodinal on my next order to finally try. ;-)

[Tin Can]

Yes, thanks Ken. The links are a big help.

I was using Rodinal and have recently added HC110, but I only sensed a difference as I did not do the tests.

I will continue to use both and now it's time to use the Silvermax I have been sitting on, however on miniature format...

[Leigh]

Never mind: I found a few myself.
Here's one: A comparison of Rodinal, HC110, and D23 film developers.
Here's another: http://static.photo.net/attachments/...-157751784.jpg
Another: http://www.digitaltruth.com/products...lmtest_001.php
Another: http://www.rollaweek.com/2010/10/kod...-agfa-rodinal/

Rodinal is generally considered appropriate only for slow films, like 100ASA and slower.

Of the four tests you linked, only the DigitalTruth test was done at that speed.
The other three all used Tri-X at 400, which would accentuate the grain significantly.

IOW, those three tests are highly biased against Rodinal.

- Leigh

[Rolfe Tessem]

This thread has certainly drifted!

I don't care how it works with lions or tigers or bears! How does it work with rhinos?

[Leigh]

I don't care how it works with lions or tigers or bears! How does it work with rhinos?

The problem with rhinos is that they're very deep (i.e. long), requiring significant DoF.

That means a very small aperture, which requires a long shutter speed.

That in turn requires use of a head clamp.

Finding one large enough and strong enough for a rhino is a challenge.

- Leigh

[Rolfe Tessem]

The problem with rhinos is that they're very deep (i.e. long), requiring significant DoF.

That means a very small aperture, which requires a long shutter speed.

That in turn requires use of a head clamp.



Finding one large enough and strong enough for a rhino is a challenge.

- Leigh

Okay, I searched Ebay for head clamps and I'm overwhelmed by the variety! So many choices, although admittedly many too small for a rhino.

How many inches (or centimeters if you're an old world person) of flex do you think a rhino head clamp would require? I'm scratching my head because so many of these head clamps appear to be identical!

[Michael Cienfuegos]

While the rhino is in the head clamp, take a rasp and carefully grind some of that horn powder into a small flask. THAT is the magic stuff which makes your negatives really pop!




m

[Leigh]

Better yet...

Cut off the whole horn, grind it up, and sell it to the chinese for megabucks.

The downside is you have one very p-off'd rhino in a head clamp.

- Leigh