D23 question

[Ken Lee]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but comparisons of film/developer combinations fall into 2 categories of discussion that I would loosely call "sensitometry" and "sharpness".

By "sensitometry" I mean issues of tonality, contrast, linearity of curves, suitability of contraction/expansion, effective film speed etc.

By "sharpness" I mean issues of grain, acutance, micro-contrast etc.

The first category can be described with fairly unambiguous language and testing procedures, such as we find with Zone System and BTZS testing. The second category can be harder to evaluate, because even though grain size and film MTF can be measured, the impression of sharpness is subjective and there are many "down-stream" factors in the workflow: degree of enlargement, taking lenses, enlarger lenses, scanners, printers, image editing software, sharpening algorithms, paper texture, viewing distance, etc.

One of the many advantages of Large Format image capture is that it minimizes our worries over the second category and let's us concentrate more on the first.

[Flauvius]

Apart from loss of film speed, the biggest problem I have encountered with D-23 is that it results in white sodium sulfite stains on everything it come in contact with.

Pryocat is a much "cleaner" developer to use. So, if you develope in the same area in which you print, be careful that you don't - as I did - end up with soduium sulfite dust from D-23 on your negatives and/or prints. As such, I would strongly recommond against using D-23.

Pyrocat HD or MC does everything that D-23 can do, only much better all around.

Flauvius

[Drew Wiley]

Well on TMax films themselves, I get a dramatically different curve using TMRS compared to D23 or 76, or even HC-110. For one thing, it's a lot straighter. It also
makes a significant difference in how the shadow detail turns out. But I only use TMRS or HC110 for lab work (color separations and masks etc), not for general shooting. For regular work, I routinely prefer staining pyro formulas. My D23 era passed away long ago, along with thick-emulsion films like Super-XX. Back then I
found out I could get similar two-bath results with Perceptol, yet achieve slightly better acutance.

[Taija71A]

...Back then I found out I could get similar two-bath results with Perceptol, yet achieve slightly better acutance.

____

I can see that Drew has done his 'homework'!
Yes... Perceptol should give slightly better 'Acutance' than D-23... Due to the Sodium Chloride present (*IIRC).

-Tim.
_________

[Jim Noel]

Apart from loss of film speed, the biggest problem I have encountered with D-23 is that it results in white sodium sulfite stains on everything it come in contact with.

Pryocat is a much "cleaner" developer to use. So, if you develope in the same area in which you print, be careful that you don't - as I did - end up with soduium sulfite dust from D-23 on your negatives and/or prints. As such, I would strongly recommond against using D-23.

Pyrocat HD or MC does everything that D-23 can do, only much better all around.

Flauvius

Proper clean up and washing of film eliminates these problems.
There is no need to put down a developer because of lack of correct working procedures.