Hi Dan,
You're right. I stand corrected.
I don't use a dark cloth, so that didn't occur to me.
I have a Maxwell screen that's bright enough I don't need a cloth, even outdoors.
- Leigh
Hi Dan,
You're right. I stand corrected.
I don't use a dark cloth, so that didn't occur to me.
I have a Maxwell screen that's bright enough I don't need a cloth, even outdoors.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
If Sophia Loren were a loupe, she'd be this loupe---
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...G&A=details&Q=
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
This might sound whacky but I've been using the DW-2 6x magnifier from a Nikon. It weighs a ton but has huge coverage with no fringing or other artifacts clean to the edges. I picked mine up on the famous auction site for about $50. Cheapskate that I am, I also used a 2" projection lens from a super 8 projector. That worked nicely too.
I wonder if anyone has tried either of those long thin Chinese loupes adv on Fleabay?
That's the one I use, I wrapped it around a lanyard with black gaffer's tape which blacks out the clear skirt. Only once and awhile do I want for less mag but love the 10X for doing things like fudging the focus out for IR film and checking the corners. It's cheap and tiny, it works for me and the folding hood on my Chamonix 45N2 gets me in the ballpark for composing the shot.
I bought one of those Toyo loupes not long ago, found to be too big and did not offer much over my tiny 10X Peak so I returned it for a refund....
I agree. If the loupe magnifies too strongly, you will end up focusing on surface features of your ground glass instead of on your image.
I use the near point-far point method, and my images are always in focus. Also, I can estimate pretty well how much I have to stop down.
I use a special pair of glasses my optometrist made for me which lets me get my eyes 6 inches from the gg. That corresponds for a 4 x 5 image to looking at an 8 x 10 image at 12 inches (or a larger image from proportionately further away). I choose a near point and far point which together delineate my desired depth of field, note the positions on the rail for each and set the standard halfway in between. The distance on the rail between those points, called the focus spread, can be used to determine the f-stop. I use the following rule of thumb: multiply the focus spread by 10 and divide the result by 2. I then stop down from half to a full stop beyond that. This rule works reasonably well if the aperture is not so small that diffraction becomes an issue. The LF Photo website suggests other approaches that work well.
You can often check dof by stopping down to the chosen f-stop and looking, but it is hard to see much of anything at f/22 and beyond.
I rarely need to use a loupe, but when I do, I don't use one which magnifies greater than 6-8 X. One thing to keep in mind about the use of a loupe is that any magnification greater than 2 x will reduce the apparent dof of what you see.
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