GRZYBU I thought about the facial tanner approach too, prompted by a p.m. from Dr. Mike Ware, but they aren't widely available in the US that I've seen so far, other than from the 'bay and not from reputable sellers iirc. replacement tubes might be an issue, and for the price I may as well build something from ballasts and tubes and scrap lumber.
Lower wattage HID units? My local home improvement store sells a 100W (2 zeros to be very clear) HID lamp for 82$ incl. tax. Properly mounted, it could also double as a "night-time work outside on a boat with my son" light. Anyone using one for alt printing? Ideas as to optimum height for even coverage on an 8x10?
I looked into a 1000W (3 zeros) unit, but they were costing out in my area in the neighborhood of a dollar a watt!! Big price increase (due to sharp rise in copper prices?) since Sandy King wrote his article on unblinking eye.
Since I bought this light, using the above boat justification in part, I guess I will wire it up and jury rig a stand and see what I get. I have a bunch of paper prep'd new cyanotype solution and some negatives waiting (and some still in film holders awaiting a first try with pyrocat hd...) Any suggestions welcome.
Don't know if anyone is following this thread still, but for the record, the 100 W HID light at 18" from the mounting bracket to the 8x10ish digital negative printed pretty well and about as fast as the sun in winter-time in Penna. About 10-15 minutes plus warm up time (which I used to coat the paper with Prof. Ware's new cyanotype solution).
I'm planning on a 12 bulb unit and would like to do 16x20. How long do my bulbs have to be?
yourlocal711,
I used 18" bulbs in my 12 bulb unit designed for 16x20. See my post on the forum for details:
Another-UV-Light-Box
But before you go down the flourescent bulb path see this LED version built by my friend Eric Biggerstaff. A bit cheaper, less chance of "banding" via the tubes and powerful enough, for sure. Also, using LED's means simpler design as you don't have to use a fan or other method to get rid of the heat of the tubes. Almost all of the energy of the LED's is in visible and UV - almost none in infrared.
LED-UV-Light-Box-Build-Your-Own-for-Under-150
Best of luck, Jim
This is awesome Jim. Thank you. I went on a crazy shopping spree yesterday so I've literally got everything I need (pretty much copying yours exactly) except the bulbs and no building done. In your honest opinion should I proceed with my setup or deal with returning some things, and figure out the led route. I'd really like to this right the first time around. Also what wattage were your bulbs. I was told by a mentor that 20 watt was ideal but I'm having trouble 20 watts in the proper length, 15 seems more available in 18". Any thoughts on where to find some BLB bulbs? Thanks in advance.
Yourlocal711,
Frankly, if I were starting again, I'd go the LED route for the reasons I mentioned although I am happy with my tube box results so far. If you have specific questions on design PM Eric. He is a good guy and I'm sure he'd help you out.
If you're up for completing a fluorescent solution, BL & BLB (both work although you will get opinions as to which is better) bulbs are available on internet sites. I am in U.S. & got mine in a local building supply store.
Finally, 15W does seem to be the standard in 18". Ask your mentor where he/she got their 20W. The issue is: the more wattage, the more UV intensity so the less time of exposure. Make your decision on your budget & bulb availability in your area. The way I look at it, 15W bulbs just give me time for a couple of extra sips of coffee. Not all bad...
Regards, Jim
I followed this thread and built a UV exposure box using 12 F15T8 fluorescent lamps and 3 4-lamp ballasts for 14x17 alternative printing. Thanks!
Glad the thread was helpful. Have fun!
In your 3rd pic, you want to perhaps zip tie the white cord to an electrical staple or some sort of anchor for strain relief.
Also, I don't know what's under the electrical tape for your electrical connections. If you soldered, that's fine. If it's just twisted wire, you should use wire nuts for a solid physical and electrical connection.
Will buy some wire nuts and staples to fix them. Thanks!
Originally Posted by jp
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