Century 11x14

[Mark Sampson]

Given the small apertures that you are likely to be using with a 600mm lens, it seems that your exposures will be long. So a simple shutter like a Packard, front-mounted, might do the job.

[AuditorOne]

I use a Packard with my 500mm meniscus lens. Works quite well. When you only have instant and time available then choosing your shutter speed becomes real easy.

[kfed1984]

Guys, thanks for all the suggestions by the way, I was working on my camera back to fit the film holder. It finally fits now. Still need to shim the glass and machine the brass leaf springs.

[kfed1984]

Measuring depth to film surface on film holders, average about 0.360" with a film 0.008" thick. It should be: 0.330" (0.332"+/-0.016") according to diversey post earlier, so I think it is to spec.

The depth to glass surface is 0.318" average. I will have to shim the glass by about 0.040" from inside the camera back.

[kfed1984]

The film holder is about 1/16 wider than the back. A 1/16 line is scribed around the perimeter, compensating for the difference and providing additional gap for holder clearance.

Attachment 244966 Attachment 244967 Attachment 244968

[kfed1984]

Chiseling out the 1/16 perimeter line. Then sanding with a sanding block. Sandpaper on the side only, not on bottom. The exposed wood is there due to rubbing by the film holder, not from my sanding, just to be clear.

[kfed1984]

The film holder now fits into the back. Will have to paint black some exposed wood surfaces inside. The inside view shows the film is sitting at the extreme left edge of the back, but fully visible to the lens. I will have to mark the film position on the ground glass.

[OKAROB]

Thanks for the images and explanation. I bought another 11X14 back that had the proper width but was 1/8"-3/16" short on the length. I will remove the 3/16" backstop as you shown in your image and add a replacement backstop flush with the edge of the holder. I will either use a brass strip of metal or I will glue a new strip of wood. I am leaning towards a brass strip as the wood might break if handled too roughly. It is amazing how many different backs and holder combinations that exist for 11X14. Unfortunately, the seller was not sure of the manufacture of the camera back that I just purchased. I am just trying to decide whether I use a wood chisel or router to remove the thin strip of wood considering the age and dryness of the wood. I don't want a chunk to splinter out if I use a router. I also have to relocate the metal pins that hold the back to the camera. Wish me luck!

Robert

[kfed1984]

Thanks for the images and explanation. I bought another 11X14 back that had the proper width but was 1/8"-3/16" short on the length. I will remove the 3/16" backstop as you shown in your image and add a replacement backstop flush with the edge of the holder.

Robert

Hi, I did not remove the backstop strip actually, I just made it a bit more narrow. Technically it should be removed and a separate backstop strip should be glued to the side, but I didn't want to modify the original holder too much. The result is that the film holder is sitting a bit too much to one side relative to the back, but the film is still fully covered/visible to the lens. The ground glass and the opening in the back is larger than the film area, so I will have to mark on the ground glass the area covered by the film, for composition purposes. I wanted to use a router first but could not find a way to hold the back straight and align the router. The dry old wood was easy to cut with a sharpened chisel.

The other issue I ran into were the brass leaf springs which I had to machine down a bit, because I did not want to relocate them and drill any new holes in the back for the wider film holder.

Yes and good luck.