Has anyone tried this ?

**Brian Ellis** · 18-Jun-2013, 17:20

I used a Benjamin Moore elastomeric product called "Moorelastic" for my plywood darkroom sink. It worked very well for many years and was much easier to apply than epoxy (from what I've read about epoxy, never used it myself). When I've mentioned this product here before others have said they couldn't find it in a Benjamin Moore store so maybe they no longer make it or maybe they've changed the name.

**jnantz** · 18-Jun-2013, 17:56

Originally Posted by vinny

west systems epoxy. do it right the first time.

yep,
fiberglass epoxy, works / ed like a charm ..

**MrFujicaman** · 19-Jun-2013, 08:42

Originally Posted by gleaf

Check out Herculiner which is a $35 - $70 roll on brush on pickup truck bed liner. Most online and local auto parts folks should have it or something similar. Have not done it yet but it is in the plans for my sink.

I've decided I'm going to try that. I'm building a 2' by 4' dry sink that will go on top of my washer and dryer so I can process film until I get the darkroom built. If it seems to hold up, I'm going to go with the Herculiner.

**Drew Wiley** · 19-Jun-2013, 09:39

Moorlastic is a terpolymer never intended for horizontal waterproofing, though a number of people (including me) used it for such, provided there was enough pitch
to the roof to prevent ponding. The formula changed a couple years back and might have again, so I would not (and never did) recommend it for sinks. It is hard to
get on smooth and is prone to staining, just like all terpolymers. Fiberglassing with polyester resins is not very safe task unless you have your fume hood already
operative, or do the task outdoors prior to installing the sink. You can also simply cut down thick ABS sheets and solvent weld the corners, just like solvent welding
PVC pipe, provided you can cut the edges dead clean and square (I use a Festool rail saw for such tasks). Plywood would be my last option, though penetrating marine epoxy makes this route viable. These kinds of epoxies are made by Smith, West Systems, and Abatron, and avail in most boatyards and some plastics stores.

**Drew Wiley** · 19-Jun-2013, 13:09

For a dirt cheap lightwt mini-sink (or huge deep tray) I'd simply pick up a large ABS mortar tray.

**Bogdan Karasek** · 19-Jun-2013, 19:15

Originally Posted by Drew Wiley

It would be worthless. It's a cheapo DIY acrylic that will reemulsify in standing (puddled) water. Any roof coating would have to be an expensive true rubber-based product, which means either very nasty fume-wise during application (if you can legally get it at all), or heat-welded from sheets stock taken from a roll, which would
require a pro to do it. As already noted, the correct method is to use a penetrating marine epoxy.

Hi, I'm planning an expansion of my darkroom as I want to install a second Omega D2v with cold light head, the other with condensors and a Durst 137 Laborator to do 5x7. But the main reason , is that I want lots of sink space. So far, the sinks will be the length of two 8 foot long marine plywood, basically 2 8 foot long sinks with drains in the middle and maybe there will be room for a shorter and narrower one, just for the large tanks to accomodate 8x10 film holders, plus a washing area for prints and film. Overall size of the room will be 10 wide x 24ft long.

Several people have suggested coating the sinks with marine epoxy. What is the correct method?

Regards,

**Robert Opheim** · 19-Jun-2013, 21:30

I used Polyurethane to coat a plywood sink I made years ago. The only problem that I had was that the polyurethane got some stress cracks in it because I didn't make the wood frame strong enough not to bend. I made it out of 1/2 inch plywood. It was something like 3 feet deep x 8 feet long and 6 inches deep.

**cosmicexplosion** · 20-Jun-2013, 01:32

I have been using an expoxy waterproof system I procured from a boat shop.
It's advantages over other systems is it flexibility You still need to paint it.

I would use, 'Form ply' used for concrete form work. It has a strong black water proof surface.

Better than marine ply which is not designed for use in water. It's just got better glues.

Using form ply, you only need a tube of sika flex for corner joints.

Easy

**cosmicexplosion** · 20-Jun-2013, 01:35

The epoxy water proofer is an Australian product.

**Liquid Artist** · 20-Jun-2013, 05:58

Before I would attempt to build a sink I would check out any Dairy Supply stores in the area.
While working in the industry, I have seen high quality sinks of almost every size and shape available, and it turns out they are not usually all that expensive (at least where I live)