LF development without a darkroom

[msbarnes]

I'm interested in starting LF but I don't always have access to a darkroom...

Well, what are some ways to develop film? I'm interested in options for 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 but will probably start with 4x5. I see one popular but somewhat controversial option for 4x5 is the mod54, what are some other options and relative prices for the equipment.

Else, I am thinking of just making my bathroom into a temporary darkroom and going tray development. This seems like a hassle but the most conventional.

[Tin Can]

Bathroom.

I had some luck with ziplock baggy developing in a pinch.

I'm interested in starting LF but I don't always have access to a darkroom...

Well, what are some ways to develop film? I'm interested in options for 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 but will probably start with 4x5. I see one popular but somewhat controversial option for 4x5 is the mod54, what are some other options and relative prices for the equipment.

Else, I am thinking of just making my bathroom into a temporary darkroom and going tray development. This seems like a hassle but the most conventional.

[dodphotography]

I'm interested in starting LF but I don't always have access to a darkroom...

Well, what are some ways to develop film? I'm interested in options for 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 but will probably start with 4x5. I see one popular but somewhat controversial option for 4x5 is the mod54, what are some other options and relative prices for the equipment.

Else, I am thinking of just making my bathroom into a temporary darkroom and going tray development. This seems like a hassle but the most conventional.

I am in the same boat as you... really new to LF and while I have a darkroom, it really isn't a darkroom. I have zero ventilation and it's just a windowless attic room.

I am planning on developing via the "taco method" in a Patterson Super 4 Day Tank

[AnselAdamsX]

I use print drums to develop 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 film. I load them in a changing tent. I only need the bathroom darkroom to enlarge.

[David Beal]

If you are handy with a sewing machine (or know someone who is) and have a few dollars, you can greatly improve the standard taco method. Buy some black plastic screen material at the hardware store. From the sewing store, get a pack of blunt needles (used for sewing synthetic fabrics) and some medium gauge clear polyester thread (looks like small diameter fishing line). Cut the screen material into 6" x 7" pieces; fold it in half and sew the 2 long sides together so that you have a tube 7" long. The 4x5 film goes in there. To load (changing tent) put an empty pill bottle in the tube, gently roll the film (emulsion side in) longways, slip it in the pill bottle, and push the bottle and film into the tube. Gently withdraw the bottom part of the material from the tube, pull the tube out, and you're done. Do this in the light with a sheet of exposed film until you get the hang of it. If the pill bottle's diameter is on the small site put a 4"x5" piece of paper on top of the fim before you roll, so that one edge/corner doesn't scratch the emulsion.

A tank capable of holding 2x120 reels (volume 900-1000 ml.) will hold 6 of these sleeves. Since developer/stop/fixer reach all film surfaces (and the surfaces don't directly touch each other), the halation layer is completely removed.

For 6 sheets of HP5+ at ISO 200, 1 liter of 1->50 rodinal does the job.

Welcome to LF. Once you start, you'll know why some many photographers love it.

/s/ David

[Light Guru]

If you are handy with a sewing machine (or know someone who is) and have a few dollars, you can greatly improve the standard taco method. Buy some black plastic screen material at the hardware store. From the sewing store, get a pack of blunt needles (used for sewing synthetic fabrics) and some medium gauge clear polyester thread (looks like small diameter fishing line). Cut the screen material into 6" x 7" pieces; fold it in half and sew the 2 long sides together so that you have a tube 7" long. The 4x5 film goes in there. To load (changing tent) put an empty pill bottle in the tube, gently roll the film (emulsion side in) longways, slip it in the pill bottle, and push the bottle and film into the tube. Gently withdraw the bottom part of the material from the tube, pull the tube out, and you're done. Do this in the light with a sheet of exposed film until you get the hang of it. If the pill bottle's diameter is on the small site put a 4"x5" piece of paper on top of the fim before you roll, so that one edge/corner doesn't scratch the emulsion.

That just sounds like scratches waiting to happen.

[Light Guru]

Ive used both the mod54 and unicolor drums for daylight developing.

The mod54 is just simply unreliable with issues ranging from film coming out of place, to uneven development caused by the holder itself.

Unicolor drums are nice, they do give even development, but I've also had a few times where a piece of film slips under the divider and sticks on top of the one next to the piece of film next to it.

I have not tried one but it does look like the best day light option for developing 4x5, and that is the the Nikkor 4x5 tank
http://backglass.org/duncan/apug/nikor_4x5_01.jpg

I personally have gone to trays.

[IanG]

I don't think I've processed much film in a darkoom since about 1986, (except tray development of 10x8) I load the tanks in a darkroom if handy or a bathroom, toilet, cellar, a cupboard, where ever's dark, I like to process while away on trips. I've finally bought a large changing bag which I've yet to use (about a metre square).

For 5x4 I now use Jobo 2000 series tanks (pre rotatry), I have one in the UK and a second in Turkey, I'd used deep tanks for general use and a Jobo for specialist processingh since 1976. The great part about using a daylight tank is you process where you want once loaded, and I often process and cook at thesame time (separate work surfaces).

Ian

[jcoldslabs]

I often process and cook at the same time.

And I thought I was the only one....

Jonathan

[Tin Can]

It's all chemistry