"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
Many cable releases are too short and rigid so that they push the front standard. Those are crap for our use except for long exposures.
I embarked upon an effort to find the best, looking for 'lots' on that auction site and I finally landed a lot of quality releases for a pittance. (Thank Cor for digital making them useless.)
The best are particularly long, of fabric sheathes, with a lock and hardly used.
I was lucky and bought the lot of 30+ released for less than one famous maker.
You can probably do the same.
If you have a long, promising release that has drag, 'notchy' behavior you can try an application of a silicone lubricant but is unlikely to last long.
The waste bin is my friend.
I don't use a "cable release". Instead, I use an air release.
When I squeeze the rubber ball, air moves down a thin tube to a plastic cylinder which screws into the shutter's release socket. I assume inside the cylinder is a piston which moves a short rod that triggers the shutter.
Since there is nothing physical moving inside a sheath, there is no possibility of friction or vibration. Also, I can cut the rubber tube from what the manufacturer supplies to any length that fits my needs.
I've been using these air releases for over 45 years to great success.
To the OP:
Cable-release locks are unreliable. I don't like to use them for long exposures. My preferred method is to simply use the lens cap as a shutter. To minimize shake, pull the cap but leave it blocking the light for a second or so before starting the exposure. Or, you can use "T" if you have it for longer than just a few-second exposure.
Best,
Doremus
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