Pyrocat-HD is incredible

[BarryS]

I finally ran out of the Pyrocat HD stock in glycol I bought from Photographer's Formulary at least three years ago. Never once did the developer fail me, down to the bitter dregs. I mixed up my own Pyrocat last week and it behaves exactly the same as the old stock. I always mix in distilled H2O and control the temperature; if you do that, the results will always be the same. Can't ask for more than that. Thank you Sandy King.

[Sudekeye]

BarryS,

You are right. That is developer I have settled on. Distilled water is indeed needed, as well as controlled time/temp, etc. I do enjoy using it.

Fred

[IanG]

My experience is made up in deionised water Pyrocat HD last 18 months even in a part filled bottle as long as the bottles are glass or high density plastic and the metabisulphite is reasonably fresh.

I've also made up part A in Glycol at double strength and that keeps extremely well, I only do this because flying with liquid chemistry eats into my baggage allowance a Litre of dev is over a kilo, sometimes I have a 15 or 20 Kg allowance and any excess is very expensive !!!

I'm reading two articles about modern uses of Pyro devs written late 30's & mid 40's and I have others from the 70's & 80's and they all suggest that despite then major companies totally dropping Pyro devs many felt newr formulae still had a a place for producing high quality negatives.

HC110 used Pyrocatecin at one point so Kodak knew it's potential.

Ian

[Peter Yeti]

I also really like Pyrocat HD and I prefer mixing part A in glycol. When mixing it in water, I had some problems with precipitation, which never occurred in glycol. I mix the working solution with tap water and never saw any problems with that.

I'm reading two articles about modern uses of Pyro devs written late 30's & mid 40's and I have others from the 70's & 80's and they all suggest that despite then major companies totally dropping Pyro devs many felt newr formulae still had a a place for producing high quality negatives.

HC110 used Pyrocatecin at one point so Kodak knew it's potential.

Ian

My all-time favourite commercial developer always used Pyrocatechin: Agfa Atomal. I still use it for all my 120 film because it gives full speed, great tonal range, and very fine grain. And I keep being puzzled why this seems to be a developer of little popularity.

[BarryS]

I suppose the toxicity of catechol has kept it out of modern developers, but it's a shame. I had no idea Atomal used catechol--but it's a product I haven't seen much of on store shelves. I didn't even mention the UV density kick for alt-process work from the proportional staining. That's a big benefit.

[Peter De Smidt]

I'm a big fan as well. It's very versatile. For instance it works well in my Jobo, thank goodness. Moreover, the two bath version does the best job with high SBR scenes of any developer that I've used.

[Kirk Gittings]

I'm a big fan as well. It's very versatile. For instance it works well in my Jobo, thank goodness. Moreover, the two bath version does the best job with high SBR scenes of any developer that I've used.

Ditto with BTZS tubes though. It just flat works.

[tgtaylor]

I've had great success with WD2D+ that I purchased several years back. Over the weekend I picked up Pyrocat HD at a local supplier with the intent to tray process a couple of 8x10 negatives with each and see how they print. Frankly I'm excited about Pyro and have delayed replenishing the 5-liter container of Xtol that I usually have available. Actually not having enough Xtol made-up to develop a batch coupled with a recommendation from Bob Carnie to try it and split-contrast printing, provided the needed impetus.

Thomas

[Kevin J. Kolosky]

I think it would be wonderful if some of you guys would take some photos using the exact same exposures and then process one of the negs in say d-76 and the other in pyrocat, and then contact print them, so that we could all see what the actuall difference really is.

Don't get me wrong, I am not saying there isn't a difference. I am just saying I have never read all of the books, etc. on it, and I have never really seen what the difference is. And I would like to.

[photobymike]

This is from my experience of well.... been over 2 years now





I have been using Pyrocat HD Glycol for over two years and here are some my observations.

1. Use pipettes to measure. This stuff is so concentrated that being off a small amount effects your out come.

2. I presoak for 5 minutes at development temperature. I change out the water 2 or 3 times for the presoak. It is needed to wash away the halation barrier. This has always been important... use distilled water... the PH is slightly acid which is ok... tap water who knows what it is.....

3. Use rubber gloves when handling this substance. If you use it a lot, it can accumulate in your system and be toxic.

4. Use distilled water for mixing. I use distilled water for all of my photo chemicals anyway.

5. The negatives scan really well with my scanner V750 epson. I seem to have a longer dynamic range by at least one stop.

6. I use a Beseler roller for development... but it seems to like stand alone tank with moderate agitation...twirl the reels in my paterson tanks.....4x5 always are rolled....

7. Dilute your Stop Bath... to strong and you get pin holes. Use a stop bath to get the film ready for the acid in your fixer. Some photo guys use just water for the stop bath... but i have found that just a little acid stop works better. i use alkli fixer especially for T-grain films.. for an extra 3 minutes. I have also used Kodak rapid fixer without the hardener works well. Fix for an extra 3 minutes for a total of 8 minutes

8. When you get ready to mix your developer. Roll your bottles of concentrate before using... there seems to be some separation and precipitate on the cap after sitting for a couple of days. Do not shake but make sure concentrate is mixed.

9. Because of the tanning (hardening effect) of the developer it seems the emulsion needs more washing than normal film.... i use very strong hypo clear (Orbit) for 2 minutes each in 2 baths with vigorous agitation.

10. I take the film off the reels and soak for 30 secs in Photo-Flo. Most important; I use distilled water to mix Photo-Flo. If you use regular water or tap water you will see a sledge or slim on your finished negs... The i use a very clean sponge to wipe away the excess Photo-Flo.

I do all of this and what i end up with is beautiful chocolate colored negatives that scan really well.

Any thing to add to these observations, or maybe some questions.