How to attach levels to a Tachihara Field Camera without harming the finish ?

[Ken Lee]

Is there a way to attach some levels to a Tachihara Field Camera without harming the finish ?

[lenser]

Ken,

I put up a thread with illustrations back in November titled Zone VI Level Modification about how I had two levels added to my Zone VI 4x5. If your camera walls are thick enough to handle the cavity for the levels, it will work beautifully. With the right tools and the right person handling the job, it's a piece of cake.

Tim

[Ken Lee]

Here it is: Zone VI Levels Modification

I was trying to do it without cutting or scratching anything, but I'll have a look. Thanks !

[lenser]

Just my opinion, Ken; but I think the Zone VI design of the recessed levels "looks" far less intrusive than any surface style bubble level that is attached to the camera body. The alternative might be to carry a hardware store type of bubble level and just use it as needed.

[Ken Lee]

I agree. Anything which protrudes is likely to snap off and cause damage, while those recessed levels look very nice, like "original equipment".

I have a bubble level which is the size of a pen, with a pocket-clip on it. Perhaps I'll just keep using that.

[Mark Sampson]

Somewhat over twenty years ago, I just glued a small bullseye level to the top of the rear standard of my 4x5 Tachi. It worked well and I shot a fair amount of architecture with that camera, until in 1992 I bought a Zone VI. I never took the level off the Tachi- when I sold it the buyer liked the idea and kept it, as far as I know.

[Bob Salomon]

Kaiser 206386 is a circular bubble level that is self-adhesive and also has holes in the body flange so you can use screws if you prefer. Comes with the adhesive already attached but you have to supply the small screws if you want to use them. The flange base is 1" in diameter.

[lenser]

Another thing I dislike about the bullseye type levels is the need to be above the camera to center everything. It's great when using a low angle, but even at 6'3" height, I've got to have a step stool or something similar if I am shooting from a camera position that is higher than my chest. The little line levels that are used to hang from a string in their normal life, actually work better than the bullseyes.

[Mark Sampson]

lenser, you are right about the bullseye level (mine must have been the Kaiser part Mr. Salomon mentions), but then once glued down, it never got lost. Unlike the several chalkline levels I bought over the years...

[Bob Salomon]

Another thing I dislike about the bullseye type levels is the need to be above the camera to center everything. It's great when using a low angle, but even at 6'3" height, I've got to have a step stool or something similar if I am shooting from a camera position that is higher than my chest. The little line levels that are used to hang from a string in their normal life, actually work better than the bullseyes.

Just checked one of the Kaiser ones. They do work upside down or right side up. So you could mount one to the bottom of the camera as well as to the top.