Problems understanding the Zone System

[Thom Bennett]

In Steve Simmons' book, "USING THE VIEW CAMERA" (http://www.amazon.com/Using-View-Cam.../dp/0817463534) there is a great chapter on determining your own personal film speed, exposure methodology, and development. I had been trying to understand the zone system for years and this book cleared it up for me. No more futzing around. Good luck!

[Light Guru]

Good luck. And yes, once you throw filter factors into the mix things can get very complicated: subtract two stops for the shadows, add two stops for the filter....oy! God forbid you run into reciprocity effects. That one always trips me up.

Yes, and bellowfactors! LF is very complicated, but very rewarding - atleast for me. I really like the process, being meticulous and seeing my vision come to life in an image.

There is a great iPhone app called Reciprocity Timer. You select your film type, and put in the exposure setting that you metered, your focal length, bellows extension, and the filter you may be using. It then calculates your final exposure time time taking into account all the things that effect the exposure and then sets a timer you can use for those longer exposures.

The app is so helpful if you don't have an iPhone then you can look into buying a used iPod touch to use it on.

[ROL]

I am bit of a perfectionist and 80% of the time wont cut it for me. I need it to be right 100% of the time.

I learned a long time ago in the weather forecasting biz that anyone who claims 80% accuracy for anything, be it meteorological processes, medical efficacy, or photography, is either an outright liar or entirely ignorant of any process important to their discipline (i.e., pulled the number out of their arse). "80%" should be a trigger resulting in great suspicion of anyone claiming it, unless coincidentally backed by rigorous evidence and peer review.

The (a) ZS will get you as close to 100% accuracy as you are likely to find anywhere. The beauty of it is that it will allow you to place exposures, based on extant lighting, exactly where you want them. Normal panchromatic B/W films generally are not capable of 10 zones of exposure. You fit the available light, as measured with an appropriate (spot)meter to your film's latitude, mostly 7 or 8 stops (or zones, if you prefer). This is accomplished most accurately through film testing, but you can certainly use others' evaluations on standard films, until ready for that degree of specificity. The ZS may best be visualized as a sliding scale of exposure. You slide the relatively small range of your film up or down the range of the scene for best exposure. At its simplest, when more than 7 or so zones of light are present in the scene, you decide where to place your shadows, and then how much to decrease (contract) development (again, eventually through film testing) to reign in highlights. Conversely, when the lighted scene contains less than 5 to 7 stops, one may wish to increase (expand) development to extend the range of light () expressed in your film.

Take advantage of the information and resources offered here, and stick with it. The Negative is the bible for zonies. Once grasped, its use will pay dividends, taking virtually all the guesswork out of exposure – though unfortunately not visualization .

[C_Remington]

I learned a long time ago in the weather forecasting biz that anyone who claims 80% accuracy for anything, be it meteorological processes, medical efficacy, or photography, is either an outright liar or entirely ignorant of any process important to their discipline (i.e., pulled the number out of their arse). "80%" should be a trigger resulting in great suspicion of anyone claiming it, unless coincidentally backed by rigorous evidence and peer review.

The (a) ZS will get you as close to 100% accuracy as you are likely to find anywhere. The beauty of it is that it will allow you to place exposures, based on extant lighting, exactly where you want them. Normal panchromatic B/W films generally are not capable of 10 zones of exposure. You fit the available light, as measured with an appropriate (spot)meter to your film's latitude, mostly 7 or 8 stops (or zones, if you prefer). This is accomplished most accurately through film testing, but you can certainly use others' evaluations on standard films, until ready for that degree of specificity. The ZS may best be visualized as a sliding scale of exposure. You slide the relatively small range of your film up or down the range of the scene for best exposure. At its simplest, when more than 7 or so zones of light are present in the scene, you decide where to place your shadows, and then how much to decrease (contract) development (again, eventually through film testing) to reign in highlights. Conversely, when the lighted scene contains less than 5 to 7 stops, one may wish to increase (expand) development to extend the range of light () expressed in your film.

Take advantage of the information and resources offered here, and stick with it. The Negative is the bible for zonies. Once grasped, its use will pay dividends, taking virtually all the guesswork out of exposure – though unfortunately not visualization .

80% is an estimate. Do you know what that is? Maybe you should have learned that too a long time ago.

[Ari]

I am bit of a perfectionist and 80% of the time wont cut it for me. I need it to be right 100% of the time.

Use an incident meter, you'll be fine 100% of the time.

[Light Guru]

Use an incident meter, you'll be fine 100% of the time.

And if your subject is to far away to take an incident meatier reading? Spot meters were invented for a reason.

[Ari]

And if your subject is to far away to take an incident meatier reading? Spot meters were invented for a reason.

How far away does it have to be that you can't use the sunny 16 rule? Or place the incident meter in the same light conditions as the subject?

[Light Guru]

How far away does it have to be that you can't use the sunny 16 rule? Or place the incident meter in the same light conditions as the subject?

Apparently you have never done any landscape photography.

[Ari]

Apparently you have never done any landscape photography.

Maybe not, but I do know how to use an incident meter.

[Mark Barendt]

I am bit of a perfectionist and 80% of the time wont cut it for me. I need it to be right 100% of the time.

IMO an incident meter can get you the right exposure every time, no exception. It is incredibly accurate and reliable.

You are the wild card, your experience and skill with the tool are the limiting factors.