Paper for a newbie

[ghoonk]

I've been shooting with a Linhof ST V for over 2 months and love the process and the output (scratched film aside). I've recently acquired an Omega D5500 enlarger with Ilford Multigrade 500 head, with intent to print my 35mm, Xpan, 6x6 and 4x5 film to 4x5, 8x10, 16x20 and possibly 20x24. However, I'm a little overwhelmed by the different kinds of paper that is available out there.

I'd like to stick with Ilford paper for the time being as I'm trying to strike a balance between availability and value for money. Given where I am as a newbie, I'd like to get my hands on some 4x5 and 8x10 to start with, and Ilford Multigrade IV seems like a good place to start. Question is, should I go with RC or FB? I understand that RC means Resin Coated and Fiber Based. RC is supposed to be easier to wash, while FB is supposed to be tough to work with but the results are great. Is this correct? All I understand about RC and FB have come from http://photo.net/black-and-white-pho...g-forum/00LmdC so far, but my research into this has become a little frustrating for a newbie.

In digital printing, I usually stick with matte for my B&W prints due to framing challenges with internal reflections from the glass.

I'm also pretty close to picking up a Nova B&W Slot Processor for 8x10 or 16x20 due to space constraints (bathroom darkroom) from Ag Photographic in the UK, and was wondering if you guys have any recommendations as to the best and fastest way to wash paper prints after they are out of the fixer.

Any help or advice, or even links to useful resources online would be very very much appreciated

[Robert Bowring]

I would go with the fiber based papers. Ilford makes fine papers but there are other good ones out there. Try several until you find the one that looks best to you then stick with it. It maybe only my opinion but I have always found RC papers more difficult to work with. FB papers are not that difficult. Read up on archival processing techniques. Work out a system that works for you. I use a good print washer to wash my prints. There are several different ones available and you can usually find some for sale on e-bay or craigslist. They are not cheap but really save time and effort in the long run. I would get the largest one you have space for. One thing to consider is that when these washers are full of water they are heavy. Make sure you have a strong support holding them.

[MIke Sherck]

My own personal prejudice is that I don't like RC paper, not because I'm worried about archival properties but because I don't like the way it feels (slick, like plastic,) or smells (like plastic) and is much too shiny for me. That said, yes, it's a lot easier to process (wash) than is fiber paper. But I like the "look" of a print made on fiber paper better. Your mileage may vary: get a small packet of 8x10 of each type of paper, make some prints and make up your own mind.

Mike

[ghoonk]

Right - RC papers are harder to work with? Why do you say that? I have no experience with either, and FB looks to be the more expensive one

I was thinking of picking up a bulk box of 1000 sheets of RC Satin Multigrade IV in 8x10 and use it for normal prints and possibly contact printing (4 sheets of 4x5 on an 8x10). Anything worth printing on the 'good stuff' will end up on FB paper (being more expensive anyway). I was looking at RC simply for the ease of 'getting it done' - washing is 5 minutes, vs 30 minutes on FB. Almost in the same way that I shoot a lot of my stuff on Delta 100 at the moment because it's cheap and I learn to work the Linhof properly (which was good, as I lost 2 frames to being careless and forgetting to close the shutter before pulling out the dark slide, and 2 more when I forgot to zip up my changing tent before loading the film - mistakes I will not make again!) - Delta 100 is great for 'practice' (though others may argue that Shanghai or Lucky film might be better for practice), and when I get my act together, I'll be shooting Acros all the way. In this sense, I was looking at RC to get things going, then moving to FB when I get my workflow down pat (and learning how different exposure time and development times affect the look of the image, and how to use the Ilford Multigrade 500 head to control contrast)

I could be wrong, and that's why I'm here and asking and learning as much as I can about getting started on the right foot. If FB is the way to go, then maybe I should order only FB and master that paper from the get-go.

Here's the paper washer I was thinking of getting - http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/pat...2x16-776-p.asp. Alternatively, something like this might be more cost effective:

Robert, what do you use for a print washer?

I am also looking to get the Nova slot processor to handle development of print sizes up to 12x16 (although I think this would handle 11x14 properly - 12x16 may need some trimming) : http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/nov...sor-2077-p.asp

[ROL]

Other than postcards, I believe the smallest paper you will find is 8x10. You can cut that down to size. Most people start with VC RC papers, Ilford being a fine brand. But cheaper papers are also worth considering, if budget is a concern. Just try to stay with one brand initially in order to reduce the amount of variables while learning DR enlarging and processing. Processing RC in the beginning will limit unnecessary time spent over the processing (e.g., developing) trays, allowing you more time to fine tune the fine art of printing under the enlarger.

Fiber has always been considered the "professional's choice", whatever that means, for traditional DR silver work. I'm not sure that anyone cares anymore, what with the acceptance of "plastic" papers in both traditional color work, and machine replicated "pigment" prints. If/when you decide to begin using fiber, you will then have to begin considering graded papers as well (my favorite), glossy or matte surfaced.

I was shamed into moving over to fiber early in my printing career. I only use RC in 8x10 (old 250 sheet boxes of Ilford from going out of business sales) for printing 120 roll film onto contact sheets, because it is cheaper than wasting equivalent fiber paper for a non-archival proofing purpose. However, I proof all LF negatives directly onto fiber (usually an inexpensive Slavich or FOMA grade 3), as it is easier to establish whether any prospect negative is worth taking to the next level as a possible editioned fine art print in larger sizes (fiber paper).

Many of the finest "automatic" print washers ($$$) are based on the fill–and–dump method of archival cleansing. You can manage this for yourself in a single tray by ensuring proper changes of fresh water, without undue cost.

FWIW, I began linking my own DR technique articles in posts at Photo.net, in an effort to assist posters some years ago. I was admonished as some sort of commercial interest for doing so by the moderators. I have not been back to the site since. You are welcome to visit my site at any time during your learning process, where you may decide for yourself whether my intent is anything less than altruistic. Ironically, the same can certainly not be said of photo.net itself.

[Robert Bowring]

It is just that I prefer the feel of FB papers. They seem to be easier to handle in the chemicals for me. To me the RC papers are harder to handle. They seem more stiff and seem to stick to the trays sometimes. Like I said that may be just my opinion. Maybe I have just gotten so used to FB based papers that everything else feels strange to me. I have several print washers. Zone 6, Versalab and a Paterson like the one you are looking at. All work differently but all seem to work well.

[ghoonk]

I'm a sucker for matte / semi-matte, so that's one variable looked at. The choice now falls between RC and FB, and your point about RC being easier to deal with was one thing I am considering. That also means that I improve my technique and understanding of exposure and development times on contrast without burning a huge hole in my pocket, but it also means I have to relearn all that with FB.

Your site hosts a wealth of knowledge and it's giving me a great starting point to get this going. Next up, i need to get my hands on a burn card. I very much suspect that's not coming with my enlarger I'll probably need to get more card paper and get a cutter handy to cut out shapes i need. Either way, starting point is to get ONE print out.

[bob carnie]

If you use matt paper for inkjet then I think you would like Ilfords Art 300 for silver prints as it has a lovely matt surface.

[ROL]

Dodging and burning can be done with anything. My cards are rejected mat board, some in use since I began printing. I've use cardboard, fiber paper envelopes and all manner of suitable objects, including body parts (mine) – making the appellation "hand-made" print, in some cases quite authentic. Really, just go out but the cheapest wood pulp mat board you can find, preferably black on one side (toward the paper), white on the other (toward your eye), in several sizes and cut to purpose. This is my only purpose for cheap art store mat board, as it is stiffer and easier to use and cut than proper rag based mount board (actually used for mounting prints).

[Peter De Smidt]

I greatly prefer FB over RC paper, but I'm not sure you'll be able to easily develop FB in your Nova. They made a special holder and slot processor for that.