Raffay, I found a few things on our very own Ken Lee's site that will help answer some of your questions.
http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/tech/index.php
http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/tech/scanning.php
http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/te...nningGreen.php
Before we can give a specific answer to your question about setting black and white points, we need to know what program you are using to edit your scans.
--P
Preston-Columbia CA
"If you want nice fresh oats, you have to pay a fair price. If you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse; that comes a little cheaper."
You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus. ~ Mark Twain
I am using photoshop
In PS the "curves" and "levels" tools are good places to start.
You can't depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus. ~ Mark Twain
Raffay,
You can make great prints using either TIFF or JPEG, just remember not to get all mixed up with DPI counts and all that stuff at first. The most important factor is deciding on how big you want to make your final print. When you scan your negative there will be an output tab with dpi and print size. Set the output size to whatever you desire and it will automatically adjust your dpi. I'm a little hazy on the exact steps, but you get the general idea. There's also talk about dpi count and printing, and that's a different ballgame. The other guys are right about dynamic range and all that voodoo, but when you print something at 30x40 inches it's not like walking up to an 8x10 inch contact print. The contact print you immediately get as close as you can to see the details, but the bigger print you stand back and the closer you get the fuzzier things start to look.
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