How to mix kodak hypo?

[E. von Hoegh]

lol wow... i meant hypo as in hypo clear. All my other chems are liquid and never really gave any thought to powered chems and mixing them. For what its worth im only 31, and up until a week ago had never shoot black and white film let alone developed. So im just learning things on the fly. I got the hypo clear just because I saw it in an example. I'm going to have to find a simpler way to deal with it thou. I'm having a @#!*% of a time getting the antihalation layer off TriX320. I might just mix it up in a gallon judge and dilute as needed.

How long and at what temperature are you fixing it?

Developing film may seem daunting, but it really is simple. Just proceed carefully and methodically, step by step. Keeping notes can be very valuable, on the taking-picture end as well as the darkroom end.

[Doremus Scudder]

Developing film may seem daunting, but it really is simple. Just proceed carefully and methodically, step by step. Keeping notes can be very valuable, on the taking-picture end as well as the darkroom end.

Ryan,

Better advice you will rarely get. Get yourself a good reference for black-and-white processing and spend some cozy evenings with it. And don't stop asking questions here.

And, if you prefer, mixing the hypo-clearing agent as a one-gallon stock solution (as Kodak recommends) is a fine way to use it. Read directions, follow instructions and before you know it, you'll be the one supplying the answers.

Best,

Doremus

[John Kasaian]

lol wow... i meant hypo as in hypo clear. All my other chems are liquid and never really gave any thought to powered chems and mixing them. For what its worth im only 31, and up until a week ago had never shoot black and white film let alone developed. So im just learning things on the fly. I got the hypo clear just because I saw it in an example. I'm going to have to find a simpler way to deal with it thou. I'm having a hell of a time getting the antihalation layer off TriX320. I might just mix it up in a gallon judge and dilute as needed.

I've never had a probem getting the anti halation off Kodak film. I've never had a problem with leaving it on and letting it wash away along with the chemicals either.
Try to keep things simple

When you're teaching yourself, you're apt to waste a lot of film so I suggest using a less costly film than Kodak. Arista .edu Ultra (Fomapan) will save you some serious $$ Even Ilford is less costly than Kodak and is more kindly with reciprocity than Arista/Foma

I never use Stop chemistry with film---plain water works just fine. One less chemical to mix & store (until you start printing)

Stick with a bullet proof developer such as D-76 or the generic equivalent. Futzing around with exotic chemistry is fun but when you're starting out you'll be introducing even more ways to screw things up so its OK to cheat and cut the cards in your favor.

Hypo clear shortens wash time and helps a bit (a little bit) with preservation.
Cheers!

[Roger Cole]

You can also get liquid concentrate wash aids if you prefer them, or mix your own from just sodium sulfite and water as you need it. The first costs a bit more but is still cheap, the second is even cheaper than Kodak HCA.

[ryanmills]

Thanks everyone for your input. At this point the only issues im having is the bloody annihilation layer. I'm using ilford rapid fix at 1:4 at 68 degrees for 4 mins and its still leaving a little bit. Its not much but just a really slight purple tint. I even let a neg sit under running water for 4-5 mins and it made no difference. I even prewashed for a min before the dev. Maybe I need a longer wash but that stuff is stubborn. I will create a different thread for that issue thou.

[Jim Andrada]

Hi Ryan

To be more accurate, it's an anti-halation layer as in a layer on the back of the film that is there to prevent reflections of highlights from bouncing back through the film base and making halos around your highlights. While I know you would like to annihilate it, it's better to refer to it by its real name. It is a very good thing to have on the film. I've never had any problem with it washing off in normal processing in the maybe 50 or 60 years I've been using Tri-X, so I'm at a loss to explain your problem with it. You might try a longer pre-soak and or more agitation in the pre-soak and wash cycles.

[Roger Cole]

It tends to come out with extensive fixing and washing. Are you using the wash aid (hypo clear you asked about) with film, or just paper? It's not really needed for film, just fiber based paper, but can help with getting rid of this extra dye as well as a better wash.

[Sevo]

Hi Ryan

To be more accurate, it's an anti-halation layer as in a layer on the back of the film

Maybe. However, anti-halation layer dyes tend to wash out very easily (come out entirely in the pre-soak or developer), and are usually grey, dark blue or green. The pink stain that is so hard to get rid of in many types of Kodak film (in particular T-Max and new Tri-X) seems to be in the actual emulsion layer, and is more likely to be a sensitizer than anti-halation related.

[Doremus Scudder]

... anti-halation layer dyes tend to was out very easily (come out entirely in the pre-soak or developer), and are usually grey, dark blue or green. The pink stain that is so hard to get rid of in many types of Kodak film (in particular T-Max and new Tri-X) seems to be in the actual emulsion layer, and is more likely to be a sensitizer than anti-halation related.

Exactly.

There is a sticky thread on APUG on removing the pink tinge that you might want to take a look at.

Since film is on a waterproof base, it doesn't hurt to fix and wash it a bit longer. Extending these times a bit and using the hypo clear should get rid of the pink tinge. I use both Tri-X and TMY and just fix longer to get rid of the pink.

If there's a bit left, it doesn't really matter. It won't affect the printing of the negative.

Best

[sergiob]

You are addressing a lot of issues here. The magenta cast in some negatives comes off very easily provided you wash well your negatives. If your negs are pink after washing I would make sure I am giving my film enough was time. I make 6 changes of water of 5 minutes each, as described in R Lambrechts book, and no casts at all. I use 2 rapid fixers in sequenxe for film, but for paper I use 2 plain Thiosulfate baths in sequence and for hypoclear I use plain sodium sulfite, and no acid in the stop bath, just plain water. Keeping the acid out of the fiber base paper processing is a good thing.