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Yes, I have the manual. It does not explain the little dots. Nor does it explain ExIn numbers. I have no idea what they mean
Alan

OK, well I want to use it mostly with 5deg spot attachment, so I was wondering what the two little dots mean in the viewfinder.
I also assume that the FStop/ExIn numbers show the FStop in 0.1 stops?...

Does anyone use a Minolta Flash Meter IV? And could answer a couple of questions on it?
Alan

Well I'll be damned!
147362
It works!
There is absolutely no sign (to my eye) of uneven development in the above raw scan.
The finished product is here:...

Agreed. I have a box or Velvia 50 but I can't get myself to load it!

Type Fuji in the search box - you'll get it
Alan

Well, that's amazing.
I left the film in the jug for 24 hours.
The solution was still homogenous to my eye in terms of colour gradation down the jug.
But the film has that tell tale dark edge at...

In other words you agitate more and more often? Is that 1:100 for one sheet? What amount of total development solution for this system?
Alan

My null hypothesis is as follows:
That it will make no difference to the presence of an over-developed top edge of each film in a development process, if I alter the processing to 1:200 dilution of...

Huh!
After an hour, the solution has now returned to a consistent light brown colour throughout.
No more darker brown on the lower half of the jug.

Does this suggest that the over development is...

Another little test I'm doing, I've placed a piece of film straight out of the packet into my measuring jug already containing 1:100 Rodinal solution.
After 45 minutes, the film is darkened,...

I seem to be doing a lot of reading on this subject. Not specifically on whether you can under-develop with stand development but on everything to do with stand development and hopefully its use with...

Thanks everyone for your assistance. I have now ruled out all hardware issues. It's not the camera. It's not the holders. It is definitely development. It's a matter of over development of...

Thanks. I have ruled out all my hardware now. It's definitely a development issue. I may try one stop less on my exposure and I will try the swirl next time not inversion.
Alan

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if it's a leak at the camera back, then it would take effect as soon as the dark slide is removed. No? If the film is left sitting in the camera with dark slide removed,...

OK - first question Doremus, I've often used the splitting focus distance trick on my other cameras but I know the distance markings on the focus ring are not linear. The markings on my LF camera are...

Yes - I suspected that but given that I had such a minute forward tilt on my front standard (i.e. away from the back standard), I can't see it.
The scheimpflug principle would deem it necessary for...

Sure - I placed them in the other post but here are 3 raw scans
147083

147084

147085

they're typical

What about this theory: Since the edge of the film under the flap remains covered and unexposed, it is black. This suggest that the overexposure is occurring during normal exposure and not while I...

No - these aren't custom installs. They are manufactured plastic. Fully molded with index wheel notches. The spindle is below the flap surface. Everything sits perfectly.

You're right. Hard to believe light getting past that. I've also mentioned elsewhere that if light were passing here, the edge of the film would not be black (unexposed). It is black (unexposed). It...

The extra wheel? They're identical wheels at either end of the holder flap. Why would one of them be the culprit?

This effect is the same no matter how much time the film stands in the camera back with the dark slide removed (while I wait for the shot). So if it's happening during the the time of the shutter...

If it was a light leak from the hinge of the holder, wouldn't it show the film edge as exposed as well as the photo exposure area? I still have a dark edge along the index notch. Am I thinking...

I did think to do that but I had already started a new box and it's happening with the second box. Exactly the same so it's unlikely to be the film.

Correct.
And it has, by nature, pinholes, where the tape filler breaks down over time.
If the hinge was a mason mitre (45deg plus 90deg form) there would be a light trap. But a straight 45deg mitre...

My next attempt to solve this puzzle is that I will place my holders into a black poly bag (at least the hinge end) before I take them out of the change room. I will keep them there and only insert...

OK - wow I need to read this about 50 times to get it straight

I'd like to understand a little more about this.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/metadigital/24854735229/in/album-72157664271821431/

This image was taken with my 65mm lens. The camera was...

Jim,
You say the end flap has a light trap. Mine doesn't have a light trap. It's not even a mason mitre. It's a straight mitre join. So when the flap is closed, and the dark slide is in place, if...

I'm not actually trying to accomplish anything in the way of managing contrast.
I like it because it's simple and fast. I am trying to accomplish a very high throughput with the least amount of...

Yes, but if it were a leak in the bellows, the light would be pretty random. Not graduated down one edge, surely
Alan

Seriously?
I can't see any hole when I inspect the bellows with a torch. How would a bellows pinhole take this effect down the edge of the negative and not spill out all over the neg?
Alan

Quite right and this is comforting in some regard.
But it's matter now as to why it's unimportant.
Is it unimportant because we don't care?
Is it unimportant because DOF takes care of and hides a...

I've found that temperature control removes a lot of variability. The drag marks to which you refer, is temperature related. I think we tended to expect stand development to be better than it could...

Where does the Sinar F fit in here?
Alan

Thanks for talking the time.
I have a Photoflex change room. I clean/blow the holders and place them in the change room with the film in the box.
I close up and open the box, get the manila folder...

Just wondering... with regard to tilt/shift/swing movements...
Is there a camera which provides continuous movement in all dimensions similar to the focus movement we all have?
I jst wonder how...

OK - sorry when you say adjust your chemistry - do you mean make the mix less concentrated? I was going to try 9ml to a litre next time around. But I only agitate / invert and roll gently but not too...

3 raw scans here
146987

146988

146989

by way of example. I've since tried covering the camera with my dark cloth during exposure with no change. The notch side of all film is over exposed....