I would certainly be interested. My Jobo Expert tank is the easiest tank to load I have, my Jobo 25 is harder to load and uses nearly 1500cc of chemicals but it can be used for inversion agitation...
Type: Posts; User: Scotty230358; Keyword(s):
I would certainly be interested. My Jobo Expert tank is the easiest tank to load I have, my Jobo 25 is harder to load and uses nearly 1500cc of chemicals but it can be used for inversion agitation...
With enough time and effort you can teach a polar bear to roller-skate. But why bother?
I have a couple of horizon loupes that I used to use until I invested in my Schneider loupe. See this link for examples
http://www.argraph.com/PHOTO%20GALLERY/Loupes/PG-Loupes-Horizon.htm
I sometimes find that Pyrocat does its job too well. Many of the subjects I shoot only have a 4 stop brightness range and Pyrocat can sometimes diminish the "brightness" at the high end of the range...
It all started in the early 70s when an MPP outfit came up for sale for the reasonable sum of $70. It came with 3 lenses and a host of double dark slides. I tinkered with it for a couple of years...
Given that enlarger lenses can be had for reasonable sums thiese days may I suggest the following
Rodenstock Rodagon - in all focal lengths
Schneider Componon S - in all focal lengths
50mm EL...
Dan
When I checked the specs of the G Claron I was surprised as well. However, Kerry Thalmann wrote on his website that despite the quoted image circle many users contended that the G Claron...
Thank you all for taking the trouble to reply. Dealing with your questions in order
1. The problem mainly occurs with architecture when I raise the front to get the top of the building in and...
Thanks for that. As most 150mm lenses (in my price range) probably have much the same image circle it looks like I will have to be more careful with composition and lens choice.
I have a 150mm f5.6 Schneider Symmar S manufactured between 1972 and 1974. This is a compact, sharp and contrasty lens. Schneiders lens data gives this lens an image circle of 210mm at f22 which...
On another note if you think the US prices are reasonable you should see some of the bargains that are coming out of Japan. Also on balance I have found their postal service to be more efficient.
With one exception I have always had to pay duty and VAT on my US imports. Once HMRC got it wrong and charged me 50% vat but with the requisite form I got a refund. I would advise against getting...
My 300 APO ronar (in compur electronic shutter) is a very fine lens. Sharp and contrasty at infinity plus its small and light. The only bummer with mine is that the electronic shutter does not...
Having used Foma and Ilford I would go for the Ilford. As previously reported Foma films have poor reciprocity characteristics and I have found them to be "fussy" in processing. I use Pyrocat HD...
I used to own a shen TZ45bII and found bag bellows to be far more convenient when using a 90mm lens and virtually essential when using anything wider than 90mm. I would recommend you invest in a set.
As my darkroom is only 7ft 6in high my Durst laborator rests on a mahogany coffee table (otherwise the head would hit the ceiling at full extension) I use it with a Japanese kneeling chair and it is...
Mainly front rise and tilt.
P may be for pointless
It would be very nice if you could, when time permits, consider making an adaptor plate so your heads could fit on a Durst L1200.
Most people I encounter are curious. Some even say "wow how cool is that". On the rare occasions the conversation turns to relative performace I usually say that my single sheet of film is measured...
Darkroom and very happy with it. I have a rudimentary scanner for uploading prints. I never scan negatives and have no desire to invest in or learn photoshop.
Dinosaur and proud of it.
I use a viewing card and tape measure (the sprung type with a little hook on the end). I frame the shot and hook the tape measure over the edge of the card and voila.
I, initially, regretted getting into LF because of my first field camera. There was nothing intrinsically wrong with it. It just did not suit me. When I bought my lastest camera, after a lot of...
I have used both Foma and Adox films. I find the contrast of the Foma useful for times when the SBR of my subjects is around 3-4 stops (which is very frequent). I use pyrocat HD almost exclusively...
Given the size of the film I would suggest something like a 300mm APO Ronar as an alternative. It is a really compact lens and even though is marketed as a process lens its performance at infinity...
Would Sir like ice and soda with his urine? :D
However, fresnels can give you "hot spots" on the focussing screen which means that you have to move your head around to check your composition/focus rather than simply moving your eyes. You get...
A known upgrade is to fit a ground glass screen from an Ebony. I got this as an option when I purchased by Shen Hao from Robert White in the UK. It was much brighter than the original screen.
I had three of these concertinal bottles and every one used to extend back to their original size over a period of time. I now only use brown glass winchesters for all my chemical storage. I know...
I must confess that my two APO Ronars don't appear to be visably superior to my non APO lenses (with the exception of my Berlin Series III Dagor)
I have a 120mm f6.8 Berlin Series III in the same shutter. After posting my confusion about its provenance on this forum the final conclusion was that it was a B&J remount. Its a sharp lens but not...
The oldest lens I own is an unbranded meniscus mounted in a polaroid shutter. I don't know how old it is. The oldest lens I use regularly is a Series III berlin Dagor (120mm f6.8). The serial...
For about 95% of my landscape work I have never gone wider than 120mm with the majority of shots taken with my 180mm lens and even then this focal length seems to have a wide view (don't ask me to...
I have used a fair bit of Adox CHS25 in roll film and the emulsion is extremely soft when it comes out of the wash. It needs very careful handling when wet.
I have used a CT3342 mated with a Manfrotto 410 head. It supports my Walker Titan (around 6lb) and Nikkor 450m lens just fine. I use stainless steel spikes when on soft terrain and rubber feet on...
Another technique is to use photo opaque and a 000 size sable brush. Apply this to the negative and your hair will come out white on the print. Photo opaque is water soluble so if you get it wrong...
If the sole object is to get the colour right would it not be a good idea to size your image to 20x16 and make a 10x8 sectional print of the most important area. Thus you will get your colour and...
Andrew
To augment Cyrus' reply
1. For me its not about economics its about being able to control the process and produce the results I want. Also, as previously mentioned, now that the world...
Re the tripod, I used a Manfrotto 55 for some time with a Linhof Kardan GT. I had no stability issues, even when I used the dedicated Linhof Pan and tilt head which was quite heavy in its own right.
I'm in the UK so a personal chat is out of the question but feel free to drop me a PM with any questions and I will do my best to answer.
Alternatively post your quesions in this thread I will do...