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I use Photo-Flo in the tank, then hang up the film to dry. Tight after I hang it up, I pour the water from the tank over the film from the top. This gives a nice even sheet of water flowing over the...

Try FX-39

Read the quote again. You seem not to have understood the text. You cannot 'disagree': this was the conclusion based on observers' reports.

There are numerous criticisms that could be made about Kodak's internal workings. But I showed earlier in this thread the HD curve of TMX developed in T-Max developer. It has a very upswept curve...

Noted photographer Andreas Feininger wrote in 1976,

"I deliberately omitted discussing the so-called Zone System of film exposure determination in this book because in my opinion it makes...

So, you don't hold to scientific method then? You must realize that it isn't possible to have it all: " superb highlight and shadow gradation, as well as excellent midtone microtonality." There is...

It's difficult to fathom how enamored people are about their zone system religion. Kodak's data is more recent. I'm not being belligerent, just presenting the truth.

Not so, at least not with the original TMY (400). If it was so good, why did Kodak change it?

I rather think that the principles involved have not. The Kodak text specifically rejects Ansel Adams' approach, though it does not name him. See:
...

No, I read the Kodak materials. Try them:

Negative Making for Professional Photographers is a good place to start.

Since when has 'boring' anything to do with it? Read and understand. If the scene is 'boring', contrast manipulation won't save it!

It wasn't 'assumed':

"It has been found through a series of...

Oh dear....I was just trying to help this other guy who asked a question. I have been doing B&W photography for more than 60 years. I know when to use HP5 or Tri-X and when to use T-Max 400, the...

'Good highlight separation' of what? Clouds that are so dense they can't be printed? They might be 'separated' on the negative, but too dense to print, at least with normal gradient printing...

See the Army book I found. It explains some of the issues.

That's simply not true. I have explained why. And I am referring to bright clouds, not clear blue sky.

See this:...

Well, I am not talking about 'finickyness': there are differences in some films' curves that make them easier to work with for particular applications. The film companies in the past (particularly...

Granularity and sharpness? Are you kidding me? FP4 is excellent in those categories. Besides, in large formats these are all but irrelevant.

I once tested FP4 shortly after it came out (1969?) and...

The problem isn't with blue skies, but white fluffy clouds that can reflect enormous quantities of light. Also, the shadows are 'weaker' with this film compared to FP4.

Looks good. D-76 would probably work well too. But why not use FP4 to start with?

Because of the curve shape. It does not 'roll off' in the highlights. In general, there are two basic types of B&W film curves, those with 'n-shaped' curves and those with 'u-shaped' curves. In the...

T-Max 100 is probably not the best film for outdoor scenes with sky. Try FP4 +.

DK60a was a Kodalk-based developer used a lot by portrait studios. DK-50 was another one. Both were very popular. I agree about grade 3, but for the rest I agree with Kodak: development should not be...

THE COMMERCIAL NEGATIVE
Commercial photography encompasses almost all subjects not included under the portrait category previously discussed. Commercial negatives would be typified by normal...

I use 35mm, and I find the same to be true across the board. The revision to the ASA speeds that occurred in 1960 was unneeded. The speeds in use at that time were based on the cameras, films, and...

Andrew: How does pre-wash cause you to overdevelop? If you do your tests always the same way, the washing 'effect' (if any) will automatically be taken into account. I started doing this decades ago.

Don't forget the iris/shutter correction. Small apertures and high shutter speeds will present a problem.

Also, shutters are not absolutely perfect in repetition, and batches of film vary too.
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Hangers. I strongly advise against using trays. All too easy to scratch film and get uneven development.

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