Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[koraks]

It's not the fluid dynamics, but the supports physically touching the film. With double sided film, this leaves very apparent marks. This was with inversion development but the issue would have been the same with rotary development.

[SergeiR]

It's not the fluid dynamics, but the supports physically touching the film. With double sided film, this leaves very apparent marks. This was with inversion development but the issue would have been the same with rotary development.

it does things to regular film too, so in part it is about dynamics.. Doesn't matter. Some people use it and it works for them. Rest can use other methods. Many ways to skin a cat

[koraks]

I've only had issues with fluid dynamics when attempting stand development with the Mod54. I can imagine it causes the same sort of unevenness with agitation, but they're not visible to my eyes. With doulbe-sided xray however I found the problem to be unacceptable.

[Alan9940]

SergeiR, thanks for the feedback. I read the article on your blog; very informative. I suspected that since I use Jobo Expert Drums for conventional film on a CPP-2, the development of double-sided wouldn't work due to the back (not that green sensitive has a back) of the film being pressed firmly against the tube of the drum. I used Unicolor drums and a roller base decades ago when I did Cibachrome, but all that stuff is long gone. Since I've had success with single sheet development in flat bottom trays, I think I'll just continue with that method of development.

A general question for all...

I shoot both CSG Green and Ektascan and fix in a standard (not rapid) fixer bath similar to the F-6 formula. I've read comments that x-ray film should be fixed for only 1-2 mins, others say 4-5 mins, etc. If any of you are using a similar fix, what's your time?

Thank you.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Oh really?

I love how dogmatic this keep getting. "no rotary" "must strip" & etc...

Rotary is only thing I use. I have not stripped single sheet in about 2.5 years, didn't like what it gets me. I have not scratched sheet in about 3 years, i think.
I do loading into tube inside of smallish tent. Loading of holders typically - in darkened room. Using both old wooden holders and modern plastic ones.

I think it is important to just find something that works. Experimenting is pretty much only one way to get there. I had film scratched during loading and while getting it out of tubes, till i figured and got all the moves right for myself. We all humans - we all have different control over fine motor skills.

There are days i can walk with cup of water on my head. There are days i can barely walk straight and need to hold onto stuff.

--

Much like with anything else - may 1000 flowers bloom, may 1000 schools prosper.
--

8x10 Kodak CSG double sided, 110:1 R09, 12m rotary

Eduard by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr

Are you using BTZS tubes??

[koraks]

I use whatever fixer I have on hand, which at the moment is an ammonium thiosulfate fixer (Agfa Ag Fix) which I use at 1:5 dilution. Time to clear with constant agitation is about 20 seconds. I fix most sheets for about a minute; basically I just fix until cleared, then continue agitating and flipping the sheet over for maybe another 20 seconds, turn on the light and then remove the sheet from the fixer. Sometimes I leave a sheet in the fixer tray for a couple of minutes. I haven't noticed any difference between the negatives fixed for a minute and those fixed for several minutes.

[SergeiR]

SergeiR, thanks for the feedback. I read the article on your blog; very informative. I suspected that since I use Jobo Expert Drums for conventional film on a CPP-2, the development of double-sided wouldn't work due to the back (not that green sensitive has a back) of the film being pressed firmly against the tube of the drum. I used Unicolor drums and a roller base decades ago when I did Cibachrome, but all that stuff is long gone. Since I've had success with single sheet development in flat bottom trays, I think I'll just continue with that method of development.

A general question for all...

I shoot both CSG Green and Ektascan and fix in a standard (not rapid) fixer bath similar to the F-6 formula. I've read comments that x-ray film should be fixed for only 1-2 mins, others say 4-5 mins, etc. If any of you are using a similar fix, what's your time?

Thank you.

Ah right.. I forgot - expert drums do not have rims.. You can still sort of hack things, but its up to you.
As far as fixer - i used Legacy few times (one from Freestyle) but generally i am sticking with Kodak's hardening one, and my times are 4-5 minutes. I know it clears faster, but i just reuse it so much that i don't want to wiggle.. Plus it gives me exact same pace for X-ray as for regular film, so i don't have to break routine

[SergeiR]

Are you using BTZS tubes??

nope. They are too flat. (and like Eric the Fish - it had to be something less flat.. ).
old Jobo tank with inserts or Unidrum tubes (ones that have funky angled ridges inside) - works marvels.
Trick with loading is to just make sure that you do not slide along, but rather kind of putting sheet in and out by slightly bending it, utilizing surface tension properly. No scratches then.And b/c there is enough water flow - it still moves thin X-ray a bit out, so it gets between outer edge and tube, thanks to tiny ridges.

[SergeiR]

PS: seriously - it is about experimenting and rigging things up. I just grew up amongst experimental physicists , so i never shy away from dorking with something when i need to put things together, or rigging stuff with wires and chewing gum
But on downside - once i nail process with reproducible results of acceptable quality - i tend to stick with it, and may be missing on something else

[andrewch59]

Thanks for your input Koraks, I wont throw out my flat bottom trays any time soon then