Right now my 90mm Optar in well working shutter is still on my plastic camera many here bought
I use it handheld at 5' using a prefocus distance and a wire finder............with flashbulbs
The Optar is just a lens option, but I will point out, my camera didn't break the weak point with a far heavier lens...
I experiment a lot, and am definetly not seeking AA magnificence, nor his tripod holes
I'm a good time guy! at least I used to be...
Dan, I am sure you could suggest far more exotic lenses that I will never find, buy or even want
I have four 90's....
Tin Can
Wait but doesn't this not work? f/8 on a 90mm lens is a lesser transmittance than a a f/8 150mm, because the 150mm lens is a narrower FOV.
Both transmit the same total amount of light but with a smaller angle the 150mm is brighter per any given area. Or at least so the astro shooters tell me. Something about 'clear aperture size'
https://petapixel.com/2014/01/29/pic...y-photography/ look about 1/3 of the way down.
Am I talking crazy?
Don't forget to factor in 1 -2 stops falloff at the edges.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Hi, Alan
I checked the chart and it would appear that the series you compared are mismatched. The chart correctly shows the f/8 Fujinon SW wide angle lenses as 100 degrees coverage and the 90mm /5.6 SWD ( as in Deluxe) series correctly at 105 degrees. To my knowledge, the Nikkor 90/f8 is the only smaller f/8 modern ultra wide angle lens to have a 105 degree angle of coverage. Usually, the f/8 lenses have 100 degree coverage and the f/5.6 lenses have 105 degree coverage.
My suggestion is that you try to get an idea about relative sizes, weights, and ergonomics before spending a lot of money for am f/5.6 Ultra Wide Angle (UWA) lens that's too large and heavy to be usable on a field camera or that needs an expensive, hard-to-find center filter to be usable. I have both f/8 and f/5.6 UWA lenses. The relatively compact 75mm and 90mm f/8 lenses go along with most photo outings while the f/5.6 is admired and then put away in a dark drawer for yet another day.
Joseph, optical vignetting (the dread cos^4) afflects all lenses equally. There've been many discussions about when a center filter is necessary. To the extent that there's a consensus, it is that 90 mm is the shortest focal length that can be used on 4x5 without a CF.
When a 90 mm lens is shot straight ahead, i.e., with no movements, the very corners of the 4x5 frame will be 1.5 stops down from the center. Most photographers find this tolerable.
Benno, if this drop of is more than you can tolerate -- it will be if you shoot reversal film -- you should be aware that there are no center filters for the small thin inexpensive 90s you asked about. There are CFs for the modern wasp-waisted ones. To learn more, especially about CFs for lenses whose manufacturers never offered CFs, read my article on the French LF forum. http://www.galerie-photo.com/center-...at-lenses.html
What were the "test" methods used to determine the SW Nikkor 90mm f8 was the "sharpest" of the lot?
*Camera used, film used, how was the film processed, subject & lighting conditions used, criteria used, how many representative sample(s) of SW Nikkor 90mm f8 lenses were tested......
It is more likely the 90mm f8 SW Nikkor had higher contrast not "sharper" than the others. This combined with a very long list of possibilities plus cognitive bias, image rendition bias and LOTs more all figure into that assertion of "sharper".
As for Fujinon LF lenses being "Superior" again, the is completely subjective and dependent on the needs of image maker and print goals.
Higher contrast is not "sharper"... In many real world sheet film to print image making realities, the sharpest lens is NOT the best lens for a given print. It is a LOT more complex than optical performance of any given lens.
As for which wide 90mm for 4x5 or 5x7_13x18cm, what is the print's goal? As previous mentioned and many times before, there are NO ideal lenses for ALL print goals. Go directly back to the intent and goal of the finished print, then figure out what lens-camera-lighting-film-post processing is required to achieve that print.
Bernice
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