Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Yes, dip n' dunk is the way to go with this stuff. Nice high contrast images Steve.

Jim

[wclavey]

I just got some film hangers coming in the mail; maybe using tank processing will help my scratching. It's good to know that the blue sensitive film is tougher, although I also like the look of the green.

Perhaps I am mistaken... I often am (my wife says that I may be wrong, but I'm never in doubt!)...

But it seems to me that, at least in my case, the scratches are probably coming from the cutting process and not from the developing process. I develop it in the Jobo 2509 reels and I would have thought that if it were there, I would have seen it in other films... there just isn't much room in the development process for scratching to come into the process. However, cutting 8x10 down to 4x5 provides plenty of chance for that. I think, in fact, that since the top of my work surface on which I do the cutting is plywood, I think that simply having it fall onto the surface from the paper cutter and then the process of picking it up probably introduces scratches. I should put a piece of glass or something under the paper cutter.

I was an x-ray technician for about 9 years back in the 1970s and we processed all our film on hangers in narrow dip & dunk tanks... I could get about 6 hangers into a single tank about 3.5 inches wide with no scratching - - and the film was generally a mix of 3 different sizes. I could see how the shuffling process of tray development might introduce scratches, but not hangers and not the 2509 reel.

The insides of the x-ray cassettes were very smooth - - much smoother than the inside of a 4x5 film holder. The film glided over the surface of the phosphorous sides. If a holder has any rough spots in it and you are using regular film, it may not be enough of an issue unless it gouges the film base - - but it could probably do a real number on emulsion. I am currently using my oldest 4x5 holders for fooling around with the x-ray film - - perhaps I should buy a few newer ones instead.

[SteveKarr]

Hey everyone,
So last night at 2:30 am I was doing some scanns for proof & couldn't help myself. The scans are lame, but there may be potential ....

A friend that's also a shooter. He did portraits at Burning Man and this is a gallery showing of the images. But he used FP4+ ... how 1998's is that!!!! Ha

[Robert Hughes]

I'm using the CXS green-sensitive film and developing in trays. I do have to be easy with this stuff and try not to abrade the surface while agitating (usually not a problem with regular film), but when I get the hang of it I can hold the scratches down to a retouchable, minimal level. And the images are fun to work with! 8x10 has a whole different feel, I've never experienced it before.

[BetterSense]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2568/...2c63bd1b_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2615/...373220d1_o.jpg

Couple pics on green film. Note scratching (and dark-colored brick)

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I think the cutting process is a problem with x-ray film. You need to be very careful when loading the film holders and unloading them. If you do this and use hangers you should be okay. Use a pyro based developer for its hardening ability and you should be good to go.
Jim

[SteveKarr]

Jim,
I have been playing with D-76 1:1 at around 8 min in Tanks or trays. What Pyro mix are you using and what times & ASA's ?

Thanks ... just trying to get a head start & save some materials and time,

Steve

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jim,
I have been playing with D-76 1:1 at around 8 min in Tanks or trays. What Pyro mix are you using and what times & ASA's ?

Thanks ... just trying to get a head start & save some materials and time,

Steve

Steve, I'm using Pyrocat-HD 1:1:200 in tanks for about 10-14 minutes. I am developing my negatives for carbon transfer printing and I try to get the DR up to about 2.00-2.40. I can build density nicely with this combo and the Pyro hardens and helps tame the highlights and the carbon printing takes care of the rest.

I use my red safe light during the development process to inspect the negatives. Very easy to do with the red safe light. No scratches at all this way.

Jim

[SteveKarr]

Hey Jim,
Thanks I have the same soup... What agitation do you use or stand? And 100 asa ...?

Steve

[SteveKarr]

Hi X-Ray'ers,

Just a note on Film choices. I just bought & tested Agfa Cronex 10T half speed blue. I got 500 sheets 810 for $50 shipped.

But after 4 rounds of film testing this film is a little higher contrast than the Kodak T-Mat HRA green by a zone or so in the highlights... no big deal... BUT is 12 ASA under daylight unlike the Kodak Green that is a solid 100 Asa.

So just a heads-up if you are thinking of buying 1/2 speed XRay... it is really 3 stops slower.


Didn't someone mention Diafine? X-Ray has such a thin emulsion coating, but maybe is worth a test.
FWIW...
Steve